The Fruteria

One of the most wonderful things I found in Buenos Aires was called the Fruteria. They all had these impressive stacked and cascading displays of fruit and veg pouring out into the street. I saw them everywhere and LOVED them. The 2nd greatest thing was the hand drawn signs. I was mesmerized..

This is one of my favorite photos from Buenos Aires..

hot

I've gone to 12 Bikram Yoga classes in 21 days.. not as many as I wanted to initially.. but I also didn't really know what the hell I was getting into. Whoa. Nothing can prepare you for 26 Yoga poses done twice over 90 minutes in a 104' F room at 40% humidity. I recommend about 3 litres of water a day or you'll have a constant headache. Lordy, I've never seen so much sweat pour off my flesh ever. It's like going swimming in air. I've also had loads of energy and great looking skin.

The first class I made it through to maybe 40 minutes before I was laying down, panting, curling into a fetal position and pretty much dying for the class to be over (they suggest you try and stay in the room and not leave and it is better to do this because you get used to the heat quicker). I heard the 9pm cannon go off in Vancouver and tried to steel myself for another 30 minutes while refusing to acknowledge the fact that I wanted to vomit. (this is normal in your 1st class)

But I digress, by the 3rd class I was saying to myself.. did they adjust the heat? Whoa.. why do I have goosebumps.. is that a cold chill? Oh hey.. I can bend over, put my hands under neath my heels and almost wrap my elbows behind my calves.. that's new. Oh dear god... I think I'm going to faint if I stand upright too quickly.

To reward my burgeoning flexibility, I bought myself some groovy lightweight shorts and a yoga mat from hotshot Vancouver yoga clotheshorse- Lululemon (lately a contributor to this local phenomenon..), learned a bit about electrolytes and I'm determined to make it to 18 classes in 30 days. I plan to keep going for 2 more months before I'll consider if I'm insane for wrapping myself into a pretzel in sauna with a teacher shouting "Lock your knees! Lock your knees! Lock your knees!"

adjustments

I've felt like crap for a while now. Maybe you've not noticed. Just bummed out. Even in Buenos Aires.. Just blahhed. I've had raging anxiety for years, low self esteem, lacking confidence and confused about a career direction and a poor diet for years and years. It was all starting to catch up to me and I was suffering from some pretty terrible thoughts.

I don't really know what to do about it all. Career direction is and has been a labyrinth maze I've been too exhausted to begin so I shuffle from adequate job to adequate job. If you have ideas.. do tell me. I simply don't know where to start most of the time..

But I did figure out someplace to start.. I started practicing Bikram Yoga 4-5 nights a week. I've dropped all sugar (except for fruit) and processed grains. I only eat low fat dairy and I try and eat vegetables, nuts, seeds, lean proteins. I drink alot of water and started taking an antidepressant to lessen depression and down moods. On Tuesday, I have an appointment with a life coach who is also an intuitive.

I want to make positive changes in how I'm feeling and I think it will help the rest fall into place.

Today, I am looking forward to my Bikram class. That's a start.

Recoleta Cemetery

IMGP0166, originally uploaded by jacksforjill.

Cure for the home from amazing holiday blues?? Take a holiday.

There's a Blues Festival in Victoria and it's a beautiful weekend. I've always wanted to take a road trip with my scooter and i found some directions that avoided the highways and with going a little bit out of the way.. I managed to get myself to Victoria on back roads ( a 50cc scooter is not permiteed on highways) I pretty much followed the routes found in this link which did take me through some great farms in Ladner and through a cow tunnel taking me under the 99 highway.. It was a bike path and I ignored the "no motorized vehicle" sign. It took me 5 hrs and half a tank of gas (about $5) to get here. I hope I can find my way back!!

3 hands

3 hands, originally uploaded by jacksforjill.

I'm working my way through 850 photos. I put up 80 or so to Flickr. This is by far the favorite of the set..

Snapped in the Feria San Telmo or the great street market of San Temlo that happens every Sunday and blocks off 15 blocks down Defensa. The most amazing this I ever saw and I'm glad I saw it.. I was never in Buenos Aires on a Sunday again.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feria_de_San_Telmo 

You can see more of today's upload here.. http://www.flickr.com/photos/jillsmooch/sets/72157627319577425/

home and rested

It was an epic 27 hr journey home. 4 flights, very little sleep and a sinus and chest infection as unwelcome luggage.

9 nose bleeds, 1 free breakfast and I finally landed in Vancouver.

2 days off from work to sleep, a prescription to an anti-biotic to stem off the infection in my sinuses, ears, lungs and throat ( I think it was the moldy hostel in Iguazu that did it) and I'm almost ready to believe I went anywhere to begin with. I'll have to reread my posts. Pictures will be up shortly.

I miss Buenos Aires. I miss Hostel Telmo Tango and the checkerboard floor.
I miss Peso's and Fruterias and the many street markets
I miss seeing people drink mate and I miss the traffic and amazing street grafitti
Most of all, I miss walking outside and being floored with ornate art nouveau balconies.

day 14- last full day

Today was my last full day in Buenos Aires. Have I seen all that I wanted to see? Have I done all that I wanted to do? How am I to know..I'm still quite sick, so I  kept todays events pretty low key but I wanted to still do something special.

I went to the fabled and art nouveau Cafe Tortoni and bought one of their espresso cups.. (maybe one day I´ll go back to Paris and get one from Cafe Deux Magots)

Teatro Colon is one of the most celebrated opera houses in the world. Pavarotti claimed the only problem with the acoustics was that they were perfect and it caused an issue for the singer as they would have to be perfect as well lest they be heard! It opened in 1908 and is considered one of the most celebrated buildings in Argentina. So, I figured I better go and an English tour was available at noon. It suited me since I didn't wake up until 10!

It was lovely, ornate and full of splendor and stained glass. I was a bit disappointed as the Lonely Planet guide said you could expect to visit the basement where the many seamstresses, costume makers, embroiderers and wig makers are employed. This didn't happen.. Maybe because they are preparing for an upcoming opera.

The theatre provides a free concert each month on one Sunday afternoon for the people of Buenos Aires. After seeing the theatre, I´ll put "see a ballet or opera in a world class opera house" on my list of things to do.

Afterwards, I returned to Recoleta Cemetery to view the beautiful Art Nouveau tomb that brought me here in the first place..I had forgotten to look in the side window.. The most amazing, carved marble tomb was there.. I will have to research the person buried there, for they have the most incredible resting place.

After, I made a valiant effort to walk for photos, but I ended up on the Subway or 'Subte" and sometimes it´s better to just stay above ground. The subway was ok for the first 2 stops and then a mass of humanity plunged into the train. I was crushed against the other side. If the train took a corner.. It didn't matter as there were so many other bodies there wasn't anywhere to move.

Had it not been for a breeze, the place where I was whe I could breathe.. I might have had a panic attack with being so stuffed up.. 1 stop.. 1 more.. I just told myself and when it was time to get off, I showed no mercy and shoved my way out and then sat on a bench and watched people cram themselves in until the doors would shut. Honestly, that subway must be totally inhumane in the summer. I cant imagine.

Finally, back at my hostel, Í took the longest and hottest shower I could. The tiny bathrooms fill up with dense steam and I think it's good for my stuffed up lungs. I headed out to a few blocks away.. to a cafe where I stopped in asking for directions one day and they were so gracious to help. So, I came back to La Poesia for dinner.

I brought my iPad so I could read at least.. Otherwise I'd feel awkward all alone. Thank god I did as no one speaks English here tonight, but with wifi and google translate, I was able to order:

Me gustaría pedir un bistec, bien hecho, con algunas verduras o una ensalada. una Diet Coke con limón algo único a la Argentina para el postre.

Or rather:

I would like to order a steak, well done with some vegetables or a salad. a diet coke with lemon. something unique to Argentina for dessert.

Dessert was creme caramel or "flan" with dulce de leche and whipped cream.. And a coffee with milk.

For my last night in Buenos Aires.. It was perfect..just perfect.

Here´s a good link on the cafe I went to.. 

http://wander-argentina.com/la-poesia-–a-literary-cafe-in-san-telmo/

My table was inscribed with Oscar Gonzalez and Rafael Alberto Vasquez

day 13- Madres of Plaza de Mayo

Every Thursday at 3:30 since 1977, the mothers of missing people from the last military regime in Argentina have marched in Plaza de Mayo in Buenos Aires. Guess where I'll be today at 3:30.

The goverment has claimed 9000 people were lost duringt he regime, but others say its closer to 30000. I´ve read bits and peices about the Dirty War.

One thing is for certain.. Buenos Aires is not a city that takes a situation lightly. There have been 3 rallys in the 2 weeks I´ve been here.

here´s a wiki link on the weekly protest

In other news.. I´m sick with the flu. Copious amounts of Advil and cough drops keep me on the move though.

Today.. La Boca again for photos, Plaza De Mayo at 3, maybe back to Chacarita

Friday- Palermo area, Modern Art Museum, Recoletta once again and for the last time..

Sat morning: San Telmo and airport by 1:30 or 2.. plane leaves at 3:30pm

day 12- street art

I took an really good tour of street art in Buenos Aires that I stumbled upon. I would highly reccomend it for someone just arriving in BA as at the end, I got some really cool tips that I dont have time for (like going to a working ranch.. not a tourist one!)

On my way to the meeting spot, I went to the other cemetary6 in town and its not so photographic.. but I did find a really amazing sculpture of a fallen giant angel being considered by 4 buzzards! Incredible.

I walked down a street away from the cemetary and found the Yerba Mate cup I wanted. They are everywhere and I´d been holding out for a special one. Its a gourd covered in pewter and then stamped with a design of a heart and flowers with Mi amo.. or my love. (this is after I htought I had found the onw.. hand carved with a spiral design and a hand carved straw from a street vendor.. both were 30 Peso or about $6..but I think I got a better de4al on the 2nd.)

A police officer came over to where I was standing with the street vendor near the cemetary.. presumably to watch over the transaction. He didn´t speak any English, but I tried to make conversation anyway. The street vendor spoke a little Engliish and told me the police officer had said I was really pretty. Then he whispered some Spanish and I said "no entiendo" or I dont understand.. but I get the distinct feeling it wasnt something anyone should translate..if you get my drift. Then a woman came up and they kissed.. but not in a general greeting way. The whole situation was really really odd so I bid my Ciao and left for the tour of street grafitti.

We walked in a certain are for a few blocks then a mini bus would drive us to a new area and we would walk. I´m officially with the flu, so this was not so fun to stand around and listen to the history of the politics involved etc.. although I did enjoy the tour and get some great photos. Here they are

day 11- 3 countries

I got on the bus yesterday at 3pm in Iguazu and it was as though the minute I sat down, my body said.. ok. we can get sick now. My throat just immediately got sore. Thank god they really know how to do long distance travel. The seats recline, there´s english movies and a nice man in a uniform comes by with lunch, dinner and breakfast and refills your tea and pop. So, I rested.. for 14hrs and took lozenges.

At one point the bus stopped somewhere and the military wer eon the bus checking passports and looking around. I thought it was a check stop about something, but I was able to get onto the bus wifi and I realized the bus had crossed the border into Paraguay. Too bad I didn´t get a passport stamp!!

The bus arrive din Buenos Aires at 8am. Retiro is a sketchy sketchy place. Its right next to a Villas Miseria or shantytown and the clientele in the bust station dont all look like they´re going somewhere. Very obviously its a pick pocket haven. Its dark, shadowy, busy and confusing for the non Spanish Traveller. I decided to get out and make haste for the ferry terminal even though my ferry wouldnt be leaving until 12:30.

The ferry building in BA is much nicer. Bright, modern and open... and a bit silly with giant Ikea paper lanterns hanging for decoration.

Finally I got on the ferry to Colonia and was picked up on the other end by a tour where they dropped us off at a restaurant for lunch. Then we had maybe 30 minutes to walk around.. I went back to the bus expecting everyone else from the ferry to be there but the tour was only me.. this was in a Greyhound sized bus! So, me the driver and the tour guide drove around Colonia. It was totally ridiculous. I felt like asking them to stop for my wanton photo desires but kept it to my self.

Afterwards, the tour guide and I walked around in old Colonia where she told me how Spain and Portugal fought over Uruguay for years and pointed out where you see stones.. it´s the Portugese and wen you see bricks its Spain and she pointed it out over and over again. At this point my throat and head and achey and I´m into flu- like symptoms.. I just kept smiling. Then she said.. you now have free time until 7:30. It was like 3:30 in the afternoon.

I walked very slowly, took photos, spent my money and found an interesting photographer selling his images. I flipped thorugh the stacks and thought.. these are my photos. snippets of grafitti, old doors, peeling paint and old trucks in fields..

"I take the same photos as you".
"oh..yes.. lots of people take these photos in Colonia"
"no.. I mean I take these photos in Canada. I have pictures of doors and peices of peeling paint and old trucks but from the prairies"
"I love the rusted wrought iron and seeing a beauty in decay"
I smiled.. "We share the same esthetic, I think."

He was great. I liked his stuff alot and bought one of his trucks for 40US. I think I will send him a print when I get home.


I finally got back to Buenos Aires.. have 4 stamps in my passport (Uruguay was generous) and am just knackered.. tomorrow is a big day for photos.. off to the other cemetary and then a tour for street grafitti. Will treat myself to a nice dinner and an early night.. the end is creeping up slowly..

Here´s some photos of Colonia..

Day 10- me.. in the moldy hostel..

Day 10- videos of the falls

Two little videos I made (thanks for my Iphone) of the Iguazu Falls.. 



This one I tried to make something so I was experiencing with tese walk ways over the rushing water, the incredible views.. all the people in cheap white plastic coats and of course.. the monkeys!



I hope you like them.

Day 9- crossing it off.

100 things to do..
I crossed off #66- cross the equator and #100 visit Buenos Aires. On to sleeping on the beach and opening a cheese shop.

day 9- Iguazu means big water

Today I went to the Uguazu Falls on the Argentina side. To be honest with you.. I dont reccomend a guided tour. My tour guide spoke very little english. When we arrived at 9 am we walked 1100meters down these metal walkways across the river to the viewing point of the Devil´s Throat. It was impressive for sure. I´m sad that the day was overcast and rainy. I would have enjoyed it more in the sun.. but inevitably that means you would be in the humidity as well.

We walked back and we waited for a train.. like a little tourist train that goes through Stanley Park.. then we waited at some shops and you were encouraged to buy something. I bought a cheese sandwich that was soggy. Blech. Then you took the train back and you waited some more and then stopped at restaurants. It was pouring rain and people poured into the cover from the never ending water. Again you were encouraged to have buy something.

I was beginning to feel a bit frustrated at the waiting around and the delays . Finally. we went down other paths to magnificent views and drops and walkways that took you almost to the very edge. The sound of the rushing water jumping over the edge of the rocks was immense. We walked down to the very bottom and was given waterproof bags for our belongings.. for the boat ride.

I packed away everything and put on my life vest all the while vaguely aware that I had not signed a waiver of any sort. Weird.. I´ll get in this crazy boat with a life vest and my belongings in an air tight bag. Away we went to more amazing views and very choppy water and very obvious rocks in the water. Good lord.. they go out of their way to make the tourists scream and top it all off by going under the falls which is basically as few tons of water dumping on you. I was SOAKED. I saw others who had put their shoes in the bag. Smart. My sneakers are fully soaked. Thanks to the humidity of the jungle, its hard for anything to dry very quickly.

It was amazing though.. so much water. And a wee lesson for me.. I don´t really resonate with nature as much as I do markets and streets and buildings. I mean it´s good and it was amazing.. but its not my big WOW.. look at THAT moment..but this is one of my photos from today. (there were monkeys too:)

day 8.. the hostel

This is what Lonely Planet has to say about Puerto Iguazu.. the small town near the falls:

Little Puerto Iguazú sits at the confluence of the Ríos Paraná and Iguazú and looks across to Brazil and Paraguay. It doesn’t really feel like Argentina any more. There’s no center and little feeling of community – everyone is here to see the falls or to make a buck out of them. Still, it’s quiet, safe, has good transport connections, and has many excellent places to stay and eat.

Sounds very exciting.. trouble is the hostel is rather remote and isolated. I get the feeling that I´ll have to take a taxi into town if I wanted to see anything and is there anything to see?? I am looking forward to the falls, but a bit sad that I didn´t plan this part of the trip in advance. I need a visa to go to the Brazil side of the falls and yesterdays trip to the Brazillian embassy prooved it to be quite a hassle.. fill out this form, make an appointment, bring in photocopies of your bank info as well as credit cards, bring a passport photo and pay $70.. just to go to some falls for 2 hrs.. Admitedly, its apparently the best part of the falls. It did seem like a lot of effort. Shame they don´t make a day pass for people who want to see it. I mean what are you likely to do.. jump off the boat and run away into the Brazilian jungle?? They would even make more money and secure good fellowship with travellers. Boo.


I´m hungry.. oh right.. there´s nowhere for me to go.

PS. If you are reading my blog.. please leave me a comment. I feel a wee bit lonley today.

day 8- long distance comfort

I took a long 16 hr bus trip to Iguazu in the north of Argentina on the Brazil border. Tomorrow I will tour the Iguazu National Park and Falls.I found my tour itinerary on line


Tour of Iguazu Falls: Argentine Side
After breakfast you will depart on a full day excursion to the Argentine side of the Iguazu Falls where you will have intimate views of this unforgettable section of the Iguazu River. Lower and upper walkways permit up close and personal experiences with this magnificent spectacle of nature. Trails through the 210 square mile reserve provide visitors with various views of the Falls, especially the largest one, Devil's Throat. The ecological train ride is included in the tour with an option to add the Safari Nautico boat trip . The Iguazu boat trips takes you right up to the base of the Falls. This exciting excursion is highly recommended in order to experience the true power of Iguazu Falls. ( Please be aware- on the boat trip there is a 100% chance that you will get wet...the Falls provide a refreshing “natural shower”. Be sure to take some extra clothes if you want to do this excursion). Return to the hotel in the late afternoon.

The buses in Argentina are totally comfortable for a 14 hr trip. It was amazing. If we had buses like this in Canada I would take the bus instead of fly. The bus was a double decker and had fully 180 reclining seats with a foot rest´, pillow and blanket so basically, it was a giant comfy bed. A personal TV played movies in English. Someone came along and attached a tray to my seat and brought me roast beef with gracy and rice, with salad and bread for dinner. When I woke up the same person brought me coffee, bread and croissants with jam. I  am actually looking forward to going back to Buenos Aires because of this.

So I arrived in Puerto Iguazu and am at my hostel that was included in the price of the tour for 2 nights. Tonight there is an all yuou can eat BBQ and samba dance show. Since the hostel seems to be quite isolated.. I guess it´s a good option for dinner and was $15 dollars. I packed only a change of clothes and my toothbrush so I hope it´s a comfortable stay. I left everything else (including my Ipad) back in Buenos Aires at the hostel in storage.

I´m looking forward to tomorrow..

day 7- photos from today

 My helpful tour guides at Say Hueque

 A few minutes later.. loading meat to take to a butcher shop nearby.. I have a similar photo from Brussells!!

 The street art/grafitti is amazing.. I love it.

 I don´t know what these bicycle carts transport.. but I see them frequently..

 What did I say about the street art?? AMAZING!

 Just something I saw...

 The grand portrait of Evita unveiled on the 59th anniversary of her death at precisely 8:25 pm.. I was there!!

 Che Guevara is a here here.

 San Telmo!

 Bicycle carts

 The art nouveau balconies..

The street art!

Day 7- a change of plans

Today I was going to go to Colonia, Uruguay for 2 nights and then Montevideo for 2 nights. I was also going to go straight to the ferry and buy a ticket and just go. But, I thought instead I will go to the local tour office and buy a ticket there. It´s the same price and the chances of a helpful English speaker was increased. No offense to ticket agents in bus, ferry and train stations.. its just that they arent always so passionate about travelling and are just there to sell you your ticket.

Good thing I did.. lovely Natalia at Say Hueque Tours convinced me of a better way to spend my time...Are you ready for this..

I am going on an overnight bus tour to Iguazu Falls, taking the boat tour INTO the falls and taking the bus tour back to Buenos Aires. It was mad expensive, but so worth it considering I am in the country. The buses have full reclining seats and meals and hostel overnight was included. I lost $20 or so cancelling my hostel in Colonia though.

Speaking of Colonia.. I´m still going, and that is all paid for too- but just as a day trip.

So, its been 7 days in Buenos Aires.. 7 more to go..what will I get up to?? I don´t know but I do know I´ve never felt more alive in the last 7 days than I have in a long time.

Day 6.. the ranch

Today I went to a ranch about 1 hr outside of Buenos Aires called the Don Silvano Ranch. The tour picked me up at my hotel and we drove through BA to pick up other guests. They apologized for the delays, but I had to let them know.. its fine. This is like sight seeing for me. I sat right at the front of the bus and took photos of the traffic madness.

On the way to the ranch we passed through 3 or 4 tolls on the highway. I guess it must pay for something. I was quite suprised at how far reaching BA is and that I am in the province of Buenos Aires as well. 3 million people live in the main city and 10 million live in the outlining area. The guide was very good to talk about the gaucho heritage of Argentina and the type of dress, dance and music. We were served Mate as well.. which was really nice. You cant buy Mate in the cafes as it´s meant to be shared amongst friends, so you have it at people´s homes. If you dont know what Mate is, its a plant that is steep like tea in a special cup and you drink it through a metal straw with a filter. (I´ve been on the lookout for a mate cup to bring back with me)

When we got to the ranch.. it was a beautiful blue adobe house and many other buildings on the property.
I wandered into a building that could have been a converted horse shed with it´s long hall the length of the building and rooms on either side. It was all decorated with antiques and really lovely. One of the doors was opened and it was a beautiful wrought iron bed with small table & chair. I think it must have been a retreat or a B&B.. but I cant imagine staying there for days.. what would you do? There wasn´t anyhting appealing nearby that I could tell. There were wrought iron tables and chairs under all these trees in the large yard. It was like a Victorian Tea Party.. slightly rusted and overgrown under this giant canope of leaves. I bet it´s incredible in the sunmmer.

We were served Empinandes and wine or coke and then left to do as we wanted for an hour or so. You could take the horse drawn carriage ride or ride horses (later, I saw them handing out photos for sale that they had taken while you were doing such things and then coming back to collect the money.. sneaky..). There were various building and lots of animals.. peacocks, tiny hens, ducks, roosters, dogs, flamingoes and sadly.. no kittens. I wandered around. Riding horses just makes your clothes dirty and smelly. Laundry is something I do by hand so I stayed away.

We gathered in a long hall with tables set for lunch. Bowls of bread, salad, cold potatoes and shredded carrot with cooked egg. They served wine, or pop and brought out steaming plates of chorizo & blood sausage (which I turned down) and then chicken and finally roasted beef. It was incredible (but didn´t surpass the Cuban ranch I went to where I had the most succulent roast pork of my entire life). During dinner, someone sang traditional Argentina songs and 2 others performed cultural dances (yes.. the tango too). The most impressive was the one with the bolos..I found a video of the person who performed when I was there.

Afterwards there was a show of cowboy skills. It was a good trip.. Not sure if it was entirely worth the 250 Argentine Peso, but it was interesting and the food was good and lots of it. I think the last photo is really funny.