You can see more of today's upload here.. http://www.flickr.com/photos/jillsmooch/sets/72157627319577425/
Monday, August 15, 2011
Thursday, August 11, 2011
home and rested
It was an epic 27 hr journey home. 4 flights, very little sleep and a sinus and chest infection as unwelcome luggage.
9 nose bleeds, 1 free breakfast and I finally landed in Vancouver.
2 days off from work to sleep, a prescription to an anti-biotic to stem off the infection in my sinuses, ears, lungs and throat ( I think it was the moldy hostel in Iguazu that did it) and I'm almost ready to believe I went anywhere to begin with. I'll have to reread my posts. Pictures will be up shortly.
I miss Buenos Aires. I miss Hostel Telmo Tango and the checkerboard floor.
I miss Peso's and Fruterias and the many street markets
I miss seeing people drink mate and I miss the traffic and amazing street grafitti
Most of all, I miss walking outside and being floored with ornate art nouveau balconies.
9 nose bleeds, 1 free breakfast and I finally landed in Vancouver.
2 days off from work to sleep, a prescription to an anti-biotic to stem off the infection in my sinuses, ears, lungs and throat ( I think it was the moldy hostel in Iguazu that did it) and I'm almost ready to believe I went anywhere to begin with. I'll have to reread my posts. Pictures will be up shortly.
I miss Buenos Aires. I miss Hostel Telmo Tango and the checkerboard floor.
I miss Peso's and Fruterias and the many street markets
I miss seeing people drink mate and I miss the traffic and amazing street grafitti
Most of all, I miss walking outside and being floored with ornate art nouveau balconies.
Friday, August 5, 2011
day 14- last full day
Today was my last full day in Buenos Aires. Have I seen all that I
wanted to see? Have I done all that I wanted to do? How am I to know..I'm
still quite sick, so I kept todays events pretty low key but I wanted
to still do something special.
I went to the fabled and art nouveau Cafe Tortoni and bought one of their espresso cups.. (maybe one day I´ll go back to Paris and get one from Cafe Deux Magots)
Teatro Colon is one of the most celebrated opera houses in the world. Pavarotti claimed the only problem with the acoustics was that they were perfect and it caused an issue for the singer as they would have to be perfect as well lest they be heard! It opened in 1908 and is considered one of the most celebrated buildings in Argentina. So, I figured I better go and an English tour was available at noon. It suited me since I didn't wake up until 10!
It was lovely, ornate and full of splendor and stained glass. I was a bit disappointed as the Lonely Planet guide said you could expect to visit the basement where the many seamstresses, costume makers, embroiderers and wig makers are employed. This didn't happen.. Maybe because they are preparing for an upcoming opera.
The theatre provides a free concert each month on one Sunday afternoon for the people of Buenos Aires. After seeing the theatre, I´ll put "see a ballet or opera in a world class opera house" on my list of things to do.
Afterwards, I returned to Recoleta Cemetery to view the beautiful Art Nouveau tomb that brought me here in the first place..I had forgotten to look in the side window.. The most amazing, carved marble tomb was there.. I will have to research the person buried there, for they have the most incredible resting place.
After, I made a valiant effort to walk for photos, but I ended up on the Subway or 'Subte" and sometimes it´s better to just stay above ground. The subway was ok for the first 2 stops and then a mass of humanity plunged into the train. I was crushed against the other side. If the train took a corner.. It didn't matter as there were so many other bodies there wasn't anywhere to move.
Had it not been for a breeze, the place where I was whe I could breathe.. I might have had a panic attack with being so stuffed up.. 1 stop.. 1 more.. I just told myself and when it was time to get off, I showed no mercy and shoved my way out and then sat on a bench and watched people cram themselves in until the doors would shut. Honestly, that subway must be totally inhumane in the summer. I cant imagine.
Finally, back at my hostel, Í took the longest and hottest shower I could. The tiny bathrooms fill up with dense steam and I think it's good for my stuffed up lungs. I headed out to a few blocks away.. to a cafe where I stopped in asking for directions one day and they were so gracious to help. So, I came back to La Poesia for dinner.
I brought my iPad so I could read at least.. Otherwise I'd feel awkward all alone. Thank god I did as no one speaks English here tonight, but with wifi and google translate, I was able to order:
Me gustaría pedir un bistec, bien hecho, con algunas verduras o una ensalada. una Diet Coke con limón algo único a la Argentina para el postre.
Or rather:
I would like to order a steak, well done with some vegetables or a salad. a diet coke with lemon. something unique to Argentina for dessert.
Dessert was creme caramel or "flan" with dulce de leche and whipped cream.. And a coffee with milk.
For my last night in Buenos Aires.. It was perfect..just perfect.
Here´s a good link on the cafe I went to..
http://wander-argentina.com/
My table was inscribed with Oscar Gonzalez and Rafael Alberto Vasquez
I went to the fabled and art nouveau Cafe Tortoni and bought one of their espresso cups.. (maybe one day I´ll go back to Paris and get one from Cafe Deux Magots)
Teatro Colon is one of the most celebrated opera houses in the world. Pavarotti claimed the only problem with the acoustics was that they were perfect and it caused an issue for the singer as they would have to be perfect as well lest they be heard! It opened in 1908 and is considered one of the most celebrated buildings in Argentina. So, I figured I better go and an English tour was available at noon. It suited me since I didn't wake up until 10!
It was lovely, ornate and full of splendor and stained glass. I was a bit disappointed as the Lonely Planet guide said you could expect to visit the basement where the many seamstresses, costume makers, embroiderers and wig makers are employed. This didn't happen.. Maybe because they are preparing for an upcoming opera.
The theatre provides a free concert each month on one Sunday afternoon for the people of Buenos Aires. After seeing the theatre, I´ll put "see a ballet or opera in a world class opera house" on my list of things to do.
Afterwards, I returned to Recoleta Cemetery to view the beautiful Art Nouveau tomb that brought me here in the first place..I had forgotten to look in the side window.. The most amazing, carved marble tomb was there.. I will have to research the person buried there, for they have the most incredible resting place.
After, I made a valiant effort to walk for photos, but I ended up on the Subway or 'Subte" and sometimes it´s better to just stay above ground. The subway was ok for the first 2 stops and then a mass of humanity plunged into the train. I was crushed against the other side. If the train took a corner.. It didn't matter as there were so many other bodies there wasn't anywhere to move.
Had it not been for a breeze, the place where I was whe I could breathe.. I might have had a panic attack with being so stuffed up.. 1 stop.. 1 more.. I just told myself and when it was time to get off, I showed no mercy and shoved my way out and then sat on a bench and watched people cram themselves in until the doors would shut. Honestly, that subway must be totally inhumane in the summer. I cant imagine.
Finally, back at my hostel, Í took the longest and hottest shower I could. The tiny bathrooms fill up with dense steam and I think it's good for my stuffed up lungs. I headed out to a few blocks away.. to a cafe where I stopped in asking for directions one day and they were so gracious to help. So, I came back to La Poesia for dinner.
I brought my iPad so I could read at least.. Otherwise I'd feel awkward all alone. Thank god I did as no one speaks English here tonight, but with wifi and google translate, I was able to order:
Me gustaría pedir un bistec, bien hecho, con algunas verduras o una ensalada. una Diet Coke con limón algo único a la Argentina para el postre.
Or rather:
I would like to order a steak, well done with some vegetables or a salad. a diet coke with lemon. something unique to Argentina for dessert.
Dessert was creme caramel or "flan" with dulce de leche and whipped cream.. And a coffee with milk.
For my last night in Buenos Aires.. It was perfect..just perfect.
Here´s a good link on the cafe I went to..
http://wander-argentina.com/
My table was inscribed with Oscar Gonzalez and Rafael Alberto Vasquez
Thursday, August 4, 2011
day 12- street art
I took an really good tour of street art in Buenos Aires that I stumbled upon. I would highly reccomend it for someone just arriving in BA as at the end, I got some really cool tips that I dont have time for (like going to a working ranch.. not a tourist one!)
On my way to the meeting spot, I went to the other cemetary6 in town and its not so photographic.. but I did find a really amazing sculpture of a fallen giant angel being considered by 4 buzzards! Incredible.
I walked down a street away from the cemetary and found the Yerba Mate cup I wanted. They are everywhere and I´d been holding out for a special one. Its a gourd covered in pewter and then stamped with a design of a heart and flowers with Mi amo.. or my love. (this is after I htought I had found the onw.. hand carved with a spiral design and a hand carved straw from a street vendor.. both were 30 Peso or about $6..but I think I got a better de4al on the 2nd.)
A police officer came over to where I was standing with the street vendor near the cemetary.. presumably to watch over the transaction. He didn´t speak any English, but I tried to make conversation anyway. The street vendor spoke a little Engliish and told me the police officer had said I was really pretty. Then he whispered some Spanish and I said "no entiendo" or I dont understand.. but I get the distinct feeling it wasnt something anyone should translate..if you get my drift. Then a woman came up and they kissed.. but not in a general greeting way. The whole situation was really really odd so I bid my Ciao and left for the tour of street grafitti.
We walked in a certain are for a few blocks then a mini bus would drive us to a new area and we would walk. I´m officially with the flu, so this was not so fun to stand around and listen to the history of the politics involved etc.. although I did enjoy the tour and get some great photos. Here they are
On my way to the meeting spot, I went to the other cemetary6 in town and its not so photographic.. but I did find a really amazing sculpture of a fallen giant angel being considered by 4 buzzards! Incredible.
A police officer came over to where I was standing with the street vendor near the cemetary.. presumably to watch over the transaction. He didn´t speak any English, but I tried to make conversation anyway. The street vendor spoke a little Engliish and told me the police officer had said I was really pretty. Then he whispered some Spanish and I said "no entiendo" or I dont understand.. but I get the distinct feeling it wasnt something anyone should translate..if you get my drift. Then a woman came up and they kissed.. but not in a general greeting way. The whole situation was really really odd so I bid my Ciao and left for the tour of street grafitti.
We walked in a certain are for a few blocks then a mini bus would drive us to a new area and we would walk. I´m officially with the flu, so this was not so fun to stand around and listen to the history of the politics involved etc.. although I did enjoy the tour and get some great photos. Here they are
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
day 11- 3 countries
I got on the bus yesterday at 3pm in Iguazu and it was as though the minute I sat down, my body said.. ok. we can get sick now. My throat just immediately got sore. Thank god they really know how to do long distance travel. The seats recline, there´s english movies and a nice man in a uniform comes by with lunch, dinner and breakfast and refills your tea and pop. So, I rested.. for 14hrs and took lozenges.
At one point the bus stopped somewhere and the military wer eon the bus checking passports and looking around. I thought it was a check stop about something, but I was able to get onto the bus wifi and I realized the bus had crossed the border into Paraguay. Too bad I didn´t get a passport stamp!!
The bus arrive din Buenos Aires at 8am. Retiro is a sketchy sketchy place. Its right next to a Villas Miseria or shantytown and the clientele in the bust station dont all look like they´re going somewhere. Very obviously its a pick pocket haven. Its dark, shadowy, busy and confusing for the non Spanish Traveller. I decided to get out and make haste for the ferry terminal even though my ferry wouldnt be leaving until 12:30.
The ferry building in BA is much nicer. Bright, modern and open... and a bit silly with giant Ikea paper lanterns hanging for decoration.
Finally I got on the ferry to Colonia and was picked up on the other end by a tour where they dropped us off at a restaurant for lunch. Then we had maybe 30 minutes to walk around.. I went back to the bus expecting everyone else from the ferry to be there but the tour was only me.. this was in a Greyhound sized bus! So, me the driver and the tour guide drove around Colonia. It was totally ridiculous. I felt like asking them to stop for my wanton photo desires but kept it to my self.
Afterwards, the tour guide and I walked around in old Colonia where she told me how Spain and Portugal fought over Uruguay for years and pointed out where you see stones.. it´s the Portugese and wen you see bricks its Spain and she pointed it out over and over again. At this point my throat and head and achey and I´m into flu- like symptoms.. I just kept smiling. Then she said.. you now have free time until 7:30. It was like 3:30 in the afternoon.
I walked very slowly, took photos, spent my money and found an interesting photographer selling his images. I flipped thorugh the stacks and thought.. these are my photos. snippets of grafitti, old doors, peeling paint and old trucks in fields..
"I take the same photos as you".
"oh..yes.. lots of people take these photos in Colonia"
"no.. I mean I take these photos in Canada. I have pictures of doors and peices of peeling paint and old trucks but from the prairies"
"I love the rusted wrought iron and seeing a beauty in decay"
I smiled.. "We share the same esthetic, I think."
He was great. I liked his stuff alot and bought one of his trucks for 40US. I think I will send him a print when I get home.
I finally got back to Buenos Aires.. have 4 stamps in my passport (Uruguay was generous) and am just knackered.. tomorrow is a big day for photos.. off to the other cemetary and then a tour for street grafitti. Will treat myself to a nice dinner and an early night.. the end is creeping up slowly..
Here´s some photos of Colonia..
At one point the bus stopped somewhere and the military wer eon the bus checking passports and looking around. I thought it was a check stop about something, but I was able to get onto the bus wifi and I realized the bus had crossed the border into Paraguay. Too bad I didn´t get a passport stamp!!
The bus arrive din Buenos Aires at 8am. Retiro is a sketchy sketchy place. Its right next to a Villas Miseria or shantytown and the clientele in the bust station dont all look like they´re going somewhere. Very obviously its a pick pocket haven. Its dark, shadowy, busy and confusing for the non Spanish Traveller. I decided to get out and make haste for the ferry terminal even though my ferry wouldnt be leaving until 12:30.
The ferry building in BA is much nicer. Bright, modern and open... and a bit silly with giant Ikea paper lanterns hanging for decoration.
Afterwards, the tour guide and I walked around in old Colonia where she told me how Spain and Portugal fought over Uruguay for years and pointed out where you see stones.. it´s the Portugese and wen you see bricks its Spain and she pointed it out over and over again. At this point my throat and head and achey and I´m into flu- like symptoms.. I just kept smiling. Then she said.. you now have free time until 7:30. It was like 3:30 in the afternoon.
I walked very slowly, took photos, spent my money and found an interesting photographer selling his images. I flipped thorugh the stacks and thought.. these are my photos. snippets of grafitti, old doors, peeling paint and old trucks in fields..
"I take the same photos as you".
"oh..yes.. lots of people take these photos in Colonia"
"no.. I mean I take these photos in Canada. I have pictures of doors and peices of peeling paint and old trucks but from the prairies"
"I love the rusted wrought iron and seeing a beauty in decay"
I smiled.. "We share the same esthetic, I think."
He was great. I liked his stuff alot and bought one of his trucks for 40US. I think I will send him a print when I get home.
I finally got back to Buenos Aires.. have 4 stamps in my passport (Uruguay was generous) and am just knackered.. tomorrow is a big day for photos.. off to the other cemetary and then a tour for street grafitti. Will treat myself to a nice dinner and an early night.. the end is creeping up slowly..
Here´s some photos of Colonia..
Monday, August 1, 2011
Day 10- videos of the falls
Two little videos I made (thanks for my Iphone) of the Iguazu Falls..
This one I tried to make something so I was experiencing with tese walk ways over the rushing water, the incredible views.. all the people in cheap white plastic coats and of course.. the monkeys!
I hope you like them.
This one I tried to make something so I was experiencing with tese walk ways over the rushing water, the incredible views.. all the people in cheap white plastic coats and of course.. the monkeys!
I hope you like them.
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Snapped in the Feria San Telmo or the great street market of San Temlo that happens every Sunday and blocks off 15 blocks down Defensa. The most amazing this I ever saw and I'm glad I saw it.. I was never in Buenos Aires on a Sunday again.