100 things to do..
I crossed off #66- cross the equator and #100 visit Buenos Aires. On to sleeping on the beach and opening a cheese shop.
Sunday, July 31, 2011
day 9- Iguazu means big water
Today I went to the Uguazu Falls on the Argentina side. To be honest with you.. I dont reccomend a guided tour. My tour guide spoke very little english. When we arrived at 9 am we walked 1100meters down these metal walkways across the river to the viewing point of the Devil´s Throat. It was impressive for sure. I´m sad that the day was overcast and rainy. I would have enjoyed it more in the sun.. but inevitably that means you would be in the humidity as well.
We walked back and we waited for a train.. like a little tourist train that goes through Stanley Park.. then we waited at some shops and you were encouraged to buy something. I bought a cheese sandwich that was soggy. Blech. Then you took the train back and you waited some more and then stopped at restaurants. It was pouring rain and people poured into the cover from the never ending water. Again you were encouraged to have buy something.
I was beginning to feel a bit frustrated at the waiting around and the delays . Finally. we went down other paths to magnificent views and drops and walkways that took you almost to the very edge. The sound of the rushing water jumping over the edge of the rocks was immense. We walked down to the very bottom and was given waterproof bags for our belongings.. for the boat ride.
I packed away everything and put on my life vest all the while vaguely aware that I had not signed a waiver of any sort. Weird.. I´ll get in this crazy boat with a life vest and my belongings in an air tight bag. Away we went to more amazing views and very choppy water and very obvious rocks in the water. Good lord.. they go out of their way to make the tourists scream and top it all off by going under the falls which is basically as few tons of water dumping on you. I was SOAKED. I saw others who had put their shoes in the bag. Smart. My sneakers are fully soaked. Thanks to the humidity of the jungle, its hard for anything to dry very quickly.
It was amazing though.. so much water. And a wee lesson for me.. I don´t really resonate with nature as much as I do markets and streets and buildings. I mean it´s good and it was amazing.. but its not my big WOW.. look at THAT moment..but this is one of my photos from today. (there were monkeys too:)
We walked back and we waited for a train.. like a little tourist train that goes through Stanley Park.. then we waited at some shops and you were encouraged to buy something. I bought a cheese sandwich that was soggy. Blech. Then you took the train back and you waited some more and then stopped at restaurants. It was pouring rain and people poured into the cover from the never ending water. Again you were encouraged to have buy something.
I was beginning to feel a bit frustrated at the waiting around and the delays . Finally. we went down other paths to magnificent views and drops and walkways that took you almost to the very edge. The sound of the rushing water jumping over the edge of the rocks was immense. We walked down to the very bottom and was given waterproof bags for our belongings.. for the boat ride.
I packed away everything and put on my life vest all the while vaguely aware that I had not signed a waiver of any sort. Weird.. I´ll get in this crazy boat with a life vest and my belongings in an air tight bag. Away we went to more amazing views and very choppy water and very obvious rocks in the water. Good lord.. they go out of their way to make the tourists scream and top it all off by going under the falls which is basically as few tons of water dumping on you. I was SOAKED. I saw others who had put their shoes in the bag. Smart. My sneakers are fully soaked. Thanks to the humidity of the jungle, its hard for anything to dry very quickly.
It was amazing though.. so much water. And a wee lesson for me.. I don´t really resonate with nature as much as I do markets and streets and buildings. I mean it´s good and it was amazing.. but its not my big WOW.. look at THAT moment..but this is one of my photos from today. (there were monkeys too:)
Saturday, July 30, 2011
day 8.. the hostel
This is what Lonely Planet has to say about Puerto Iguazu.. the small town near the falls:
Little Puerto Iguazú sits at the confluence of the Ríos Paraná and Iguazú and looks across to Brazil and Paraguay. It doesn’t really feel like Argentina any more. There’s no center and little feeling of community – everyone is here to see the falls or to make a buck out of them. Still, it’s quiet, safe, has good transport connections, and has many excellent places to stay and eat.
Sounds very exciting.. trouble is the hostel is rather remote and isolated. I get the feeling that I´ll have to take a taxi into town if I wanted to see anything and is there anything to see?? I am looking forward to the falls, but a bit sad that I didn´t plan this part of the trip in advance. I need a visa to go to the Brazil side of the falls and yesterdays trip to the Brazillian embassy prooved it to be quite a hassle.. fill out this form, make an appointment, bring in photocopies of your bank info as well as credit cards, bring a passport photo and pay $70.. just to go to some falls for 2 hrs.. Admitedly, its apparently the best part of the falls. It did seem like a lot of effort. Shame they don´t make a day pass for people who want to see it. I mean what are you likely to do.. jump off the boat and run away into the Brazilian jungle?? They would even make more money and secure good fellowship with travellers. Boo.
I´m hungry.. oh right.. there´s nowhere for me to go.
PS. If you are reading my blog.. please leave me a comment. I feel a wee bit lonley today.
Little Puerto Iguazú sits at the confluence of the Ríos Paraná and Iguazú and looks across to Brazil and Paraguay. It doesn’t really feel like Argentina any more. There’s no center and little feeling of community – everyone is here to see the falls or to make a buck out of them. Still, it’s quiet, safe, has good transport connections, and has many excellent places to stay and eat.
Sounds very exciting.. trouble is the hostel is rather remote and isolated. I get the feeling that I´ll have to take a taxi into town if I wanted to see anything and is there anything to see?? I am looking forward to the falls, but a bit sad that I didn´t plan this part of the trip in advance. I need a visa to go to the Brazil side of the falls and yesterdays trip to the Brazillian embassy prooved it to be quite a hassle.. fill out this form, make an appointment, bring in photocopies of your bank info as well as credit cards, bring a passport photo and pay $70.. just to go to some falls for 2 hrs.. Admitedly, its apparently the best part of the falls. It did seem like a lot of effort. Shame they don´t make a day pass for people who want to see it. I mean what are you likely to do.. jump off the boat and run away into the Brazilian jungle?? They would even make more money and secure good fellowship with travellers. Boo.
I´m hungry.. oh right.. there´s nowhere for me to go.
PS. If you are reading my blog.. please leave me a comment. I feel a wee bit lonley today.
day 8- long distance comfort
I took a long 16 hr bus trip to Iguazu in the north of Argentina on the Brazil border. Tomorrow I will tour the Iguazu National Park and Falls.I found my tour itinerary on line
Tour of Iguazu Falls: Argentine Side
After breakfast you will depart on a full day excursion to the Argentine side of the Iguazu Falls where you will have intimate views of this unforgettable section of the Iguazu River. Lower and upper walkways permit up close and personal experiences with this magnificent spectacle of nature. Trails through the 210 square mile reserve provide visitors with various views of the Falls, especially the largest one, Devil's Throat. The ecological train ride is included in the tour with an option to add the Safari Nautico boat trip . The Iguazu boat trips takes you right up to the base of the Falls. This exciting excursion is highly recommended in order to experience the true power of Iguazu Falls. ( Please be aware- on the boat trip there is a 100% chance that you will get wet...the Falls provide a refreshing “natural shower”. Be sure to take some extra clothes if you want to do this excursion). Return to the hotel in the late afternoon.
The buses in Argentina are totally comfortable for a 14 hr trip. It was amazing. If we had buses like this in Canada I would take the bus instead of fly. The bus was a double decker and had fully 180 reclining seats with a foot rest´, pillow and blanket so basically, it was a giant comfy bed. A personal TV played movies in English. Someone came along and attached a tray to my seat and brought me roast beef with gracy and rice, with salad and bread for dinner. When I woke up the same person brought me coffee, bread and croissants with jam. I am actually looking forward to going back to Buenos Aires because of this.
So I arrived in Puerto Iguazu and am at my hostel that was included in the price of the tour for 2 nights. Tonight there is an all yuou can eat BBQ and samba dance show. Since the hostel seems to be quite isolated.. I guess it´s a good option for dinner and was $15 dollars. I packed only a change of clothes and my toothbrush so I hope it´s a comfortable stay. I left everything else (including my Ipad) back in Buenos Aires at the hostel in storage.
I´m looking forward to tomorrow..
Tour of Iguazu Falls: Argentine Side
After breakfast you will depart on a full day excursion to the Argentine side of the Iguazu Falls where you will have intimate views of this unforgettable section of the Iguazu River. Lower and upper walkways permit up close and personal experiences with this magnificent spectacle of nature. Trails through the 210 square mile reserve provide visitors with various views of the Falls, especially the largest one, Devil's Throat. The ecological train ride is included in the tour with an option to add the Safari Nautico boat trip . The Iguazu boat trips takes you right up to the base of the Falls. This exciting excursion is highly recommended in order to experience the true power of Iguazu Falls. ( Please be aware- on the boat trip there is a 100% chance that you will get wet...the Falls provide a refreshing “natural shower”. Be sure to take some extra clothes if you want to do this excursion). Return to the hotel in the late afternoon.
The buses in Argentina are totally comfortable for a 14 hr trip. It was amazing. If we had buses like this in Canada I would take the bus instead of fly. The bus was a double decker and had fully 180 reclining seats with a foot rest´, pillow and blanket so basically, it was a giant comfy bed. A personal TV played movies in English. Someone came along and attached a tray to my seat and brought me roast beef with gracy and rice, with salad and bread for dinner. When I woke up the same person brought me coffee, bread and croissants with jam. I am actually looking forward to going back to Buenos Aires because of this.
So I arrived in Puerto Iguazu and am at my hostel that was included in the price of the tour for 2 nights. Tonight there is an all yuou can eat BBQ and samba dance show. Since the hostel seems to be quite isolated.. I guess it´s a good option for dinner and was $15 dollars. I packed only a change of clothes and my toothbrush so I hope it´s a comfortable stay. I left everything else (including my Ipad) back in Buenos Aires at the hostel in storage.
I´m looking forward to tomorrow..
Friday, July 29, 2011
day 7- photos from today
Day 7- a change of plans
Today I was going to go to Colonia, Uruguay for 2 nights and then Montevideo for 2 nights. I was also going to go straight to the ferry and buy a ticket and just go. But, I thought instead I will go to the local tour office and buy a ticket there. It´s the same price and the chances of a helpful English speaker was increased. No offense to ticket agents in bus, ferry and train stations.. its just that they arent always so passionate about travelling and are just there to sell you your ticket.
Good thing I did.. lovely Natalia at Say Hueque Tours convinced me of a better way to spend my time...Are you ready for this..
I am going on an overnight bus tour to Iguazu Falls, taking the boat tour INTO the falls and taking the bus tour back to Buenos Aires. It was mad expensive, but so worth it considering I am in the country. The buses have full reclining seats and meals and hostel overnight was included. I lost $20 or so cancelling my hostel in Colonia though.
Speaking of Colonia.. I´m still going, and that is all paid for too- but just as a day trip.
So, its been 7 days in Buenos Aires.. 7 more to go..what will I get up to?? I don´t know but I do know I´ve never felt more alive in the last 7 days than I have in a long time.
Good thing I did.. lovely Natalia at Say Hueque Tours convinced me of a better way to spend my time...Are you ready for this..
I am going on an overnight bus tour to Iguazu Falls, taking the boat tour INTO the falls and taking the bus tour back to Buenos Aires. It was mad expensive, but so worth it considering I am in the country. The buses have full reclining seats and meals and hostel overnight was included. I lost $20 or so cancelling my hostel in Colonia though.
Speaking of Colonia.. I´m still going, and that is all paid for too- but just as a day trip.
So, its been 7 days in Buenos Aires.. 7 more to go..what will I get up to?? I don´t know but I do know I´ve never felt more alive in the last 7 days than I have in a long time.
Thursday, July 28, 2011
Day 6.. the ranch
Today I went to a ranch about 1 hr outside of Buenos Aires called the Don Silvano Ranch. The tour picked me up at my hotel and we drove through BA to pick up other guests. They apologized for the delays, but I had to let them know.. its fine. This is like sight seeing for me. I sat right at the front of the bus and took photos of the traffic madness.
On the way to the ranch we passed through 3 or 4 tolls on the highway. I guess it must pay for something. I was quite suprised at how far reaching BA is and that I am in the province of Buenos Aires as well. 3 million people live in the main city and 10 million live in the outlining area. The guide was very good to talk about the gaucho heritage of Argentina and the type of dress, dance and music. We were served Mate as well.. which was really nice. You cant buy Mate in the cafes as it´s meant to be shared amongst friends, so you have it at people´s homes. If you dont know what Mate is, its a plant that is steep like tea in a special cup and you drink it through a metal straw with a filter. (I´ve been on the lookout for a mate cup to bring back with me)
When we got to the ranch.. it was a beautiful blue adobe house and many other buildings on the property.
I wandered into a building that could have been a converted horse shed with it´s long hall the length of the building and rooms on either side. It was all decorated with antiques and really lovely. One of the doors was opened and it was a beautiful wrought iron bed with small table & chair. I think it must have been a retreat or a B&B.. but I cant imagine staying there for days.. what would you do? There wasn´t anyhting appealing nearby that I could tell. There were wrought iron tables and chairs under all these trees in the large yard. It was like a Victorian Tea Party.. slightly rusted and overgrown under this giant canope of leaves. I bet it´s incredible in the sunmmer.
We were served Empinandes and wine or coke and then left to do as we wanted for an hour or so. You could take the horse drawn carriage ride or ride horses (later, I saw them handing out photos for sale that they had taken while you were doing such things and then coming back to collect the money.. sneaky..). There were various building and lots of animals.. peacocks, tiny hens, ducks, roosters, dogs, flamingoes and sadly.. no kittens. I wandered around. Riding horses just makes your clothes dirty and smelly. Laundry is something I do by hand so I stayed away.
We gathered in a long hall with tables set for lunch. Bowls of bread, salad, cold potatoes and shredded carrot with cooked egg. They served wine, or pop and brought out steaming plates of chorizo & blood sausage (which I turned down) and then chicken and finally roasted beef. It was incredible (but didn´t surpass the Cuban ranch I went to where I had the most succulent roast pork of my entire life). During dinner, someone sang traditional Argentina songs and 2 others performed cultural dances (yes.. the tango too). The most impressive was the one with the bolos..I found a video of the person who performed when I was there.
Afterwards there was a show of cowboy skills. It was a good trip.. Not sure if it was entirely worth the 250 Argentine Peso, but it was interesting and the food was good and lots of it. I think the last photo is really funny.
On the way to the ranch we passed through 3 or 4 tolls on the highway. I guess it must pay for something. I was quite suprised at how far reaching BA is and that I am in the province of Buenos Aires as well. 3 million people live in the main city and 10 million live in the outlining area. The guide was very good to talk about the gaucho heritage of Argentina and the type of dress, dance and music. We were served Mate as well.. which was really nice. You cant buy Mate in the cafes as it´s meant to be shared amongst friends, so you have it at people´s homes. If you dont know what Mate is, its a plant that is steep like tea in a special cup and you drink it through a metal straw with a filter. (I´ve been on the lookout for a mate cup to bring back with me)
I wandered into a building that could have been a converted horse shed with it´s long hall the length of the building and rooms on either side. It was all decorated with antiques and really lovely. One of the doors was opened and it was a beautiful wrought iron bed with small table & chair. I think it must have been a retreat or a B&B.. but I cant imagine staying there for days.. what would you do? There wasn´t anyhting appealing nearby that I could tell. There were wrought iron tables and chairs under all these trees in the large yard. It was like a Victorian Tea Party.. slightly rusted and overgrown under this giant canope of leaves. I bet it´s incredible in the sunmmer.
We gathered in a long hall with tables set for lunch. Bowls of bread, salad, cold potatoes and shredded carrot with cooked egg. They served wine, or pop and brought out steaming plates of chorizo & blood sausage (which I turned down) and then chicken and finally roasted beef. It was incredible (but didn´t surpass the Cuban ranch I went to where I had the most succulent roast pork of my entire life). During dinner, someone sang traditional Argentina songs and 2 others performed cultural dances (yes.. the tango too). The most impressive was the one with the bolos..I found a video of the person who performed when I was there.
Afterwards there was a show of cowboy skills. It was a good trip.. Not sure if it was entirely worth the 250 Argentine Peso, but it was interesting and the food was good and lots of it. I think the last photo is really funny.
one day in Recoleta Cemetary
I managed to download a few photos from my phone..here´s the link..
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150321418407429.389162.633547428&l=9572caffcd&type=1
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Day 4- Tigre and the aspicious occurance
It got off to a rocky start. I had to be at my meeting point, the historic Cafe Tortoni at 8:45. Because I was also moving rooms, I had to be up, dressed, packed and checked out by 8:15. I was out the door and arrived at the cafe and bought a coffee and waited and waited... and got frustrated and left. I was going over in my head how I was going to tell the front desk clerk how I was going to convince him to give me my tour fare back.. of the 3 desk clerfs.. I find him the least sincere. Lucky for us both, he managed to get me booked back on a tour to Tigre. Except I had to take a 20 AR taxi to get to the meeting point!!
I had to go to Cafe Moderna and wait there.. he said to me. When I got there, there was a very slick ¨host¨who greeted me like I was his long lost waitress.. a kiss on both cheeks and a ¨here come with me¨. It turns out the bus was across the street and down the road a bit. I swear to god there´s an issue with directions, map reading and communication in general in Buenos Airies and it has nothing to do with me not knowing Spanish.
Well, I did end up in Tigre and the filty rivers thus forth. We took a long boat ride down the rivers and the first one is just completely disgusting with garbage. It´s phenomenal no one cleans it up considering the tourism. The other smaller rivers were less cluttered, but I did photograph someone´s front yard of washed up plastic bottles. The houses were all stilt houses like the ones around New Orleans.. with walkways to docks that even had mailboxes and addresses. I saw a boat laden with fruit and other items.. it was like a floating grocery store. I imagine it went up and down the river docking at each house delivering or selling groceries. I took a photo of it as it had the same name as my mother- Anita. It was, despite the pullution of the water way.. really picturesque.
After Tigre, we came back into Buenos Aires and all of a sudden I saw these reams of colored cloth flying like tiny flags against the highway. It happened so fast I alsmots didn´t realize it was laundry and we were whizzing past a shanty town against the highway. It was remarkeable and I wish I could have gone and walked around. Colorful laundry everwhere against corraguated tin shacks. Small orange stands set up to do what little business you could. Then all of a sudden the bus is in Recoleta.. the richest part of Buenos Aires..
I am fortunate. Fortunate to walk freely inside a fancy cafe and afford a light lunch. Fortunate to stay in a budget hotel because I want to. Fortunate to travel to another culture and return to the safety, comfort and priveledge of Canadian society.
I decided to get off the bus in Recoleta to go to the Cemetary. I wasn´t going to go until tomorrow.. but I thought.. I am nearby.. so I´ll go today. It was most serendipitous to do so as well, as today is the anniversary of Eva Peron´s death. She was buried in Recoleta Cemetary and as a result of today.. it was quite a show of flowers, pictures, newspaper articles etc.. but for me.. most important was these two examples of Gothic & Art Nouveau architecture.. I took a zillion phots of these both.. these 2 images are from the web.
Getting home from Recoleta was a nother matter intirely.. when I finally did find a metro station 12 blocks away, I found it CRAMMED full of people. The satreets were packed with cars.. is this Buenos Aiores rush hour?? This is NUTS. When I cam out into the street.. it was one of the major boulevards and there was a festival of some sort.. Flags were waviong and thousands (literally) thousands of people were carying torches and marching though the streets. I turned around to face the direction they were going in and a one giant building in the distance had a gaint flag of Argentina drapped down the length and inside the flag lit up was the image of Eva Peron. 59 years after her death.. she is still clebrated today.
I had to go to Cafe Moderna and wait there.. he said to me. When I got there, there was a very slick ¨host¨who greeted me like I was his long lost waitress.. a kiss on both cheeks and a ¨here come with me¨. It turns out the bus was across the street and down the road a bit. I swear to god there´s an issue with directions, map reading and communication in general in Buenos Airies and it has nothing to do with me not knowing Spanish.
Well, I did end up in Tigre and the filty rivers thus forth. We took a long boat ride down the rivers and the first one is just completely disgusting with garbage. It´s phenomenal no one cleans it up considering the tourism. The other smaller rivers were less cluttered, but I did photograph someone´s front yard of washed up plastic bottles. The houses were all stilt houses like the ones around New Orleans.. with walkways to docks that even had mailboxes and addresses. I saw a boat laden with fruit and other items.. it was like a floating grocery store. I imagine it went up and down the river docking at each house delivering or selling groceries. I took a photo of it as it had the same name as my mother- Anita. It was, despite the pullution of the water way.. really picturesque.
After Tigre, we came back into Buenos Aires and all of a sudden I saw these reams of colored cloth flying like tiny flags against the highway. It happened so fast I alsmots didn´t realize it was laundry and we were whizzing past a shanty town against the highway. It was remarkeable and I wish I could have gone and walked around. Colorful laundry everwhere against corraguated tin shacks. Small orange stands set up to do what little business you could. Then all of a sudden the bus is in Recoleta.. the richest part of Buenos Aires..
I am fortunate. Fortunate to walk freely inside a fancy cafe and afford a light lunch. Fortunate to stay in a budget hotel because I want to. Fortunate to travel to another culture and return to the safety, comfort and priveledge of Canadian society.
I decided to get off the bus in Recoleta to go to the Cemetary. I wasn´t going to go until tomorrow.. but I thought.. I am nearby.. so I´ll go today. It was most serendipitous to do so as well, as today is the anniversary of Eva Peron´s death. She was buried in Recoleta Cemetary and as a result of today.. it was quite a show of flowers, pictures, newspaper articles etc.. but for me.. most important was these two examples of Gothic & Art Nouveau architecture.. I took a zillion phots of these both.. these 2 images are from the web.
Day 4- make jam while you have the ingredients or it can just be soggy fruit
Plans... make plans or it won´t happen. I get freaky about the cost and think.. I´ll just stay put in this little neighborhood eating $1 empinandas and fruit.. and then I think .. wait a second.. you didn´t fly all this way to hang out in San Telmo reading my Ipad books!
So.. off we go and cost be damned.. I´ll stock up on those $1 Empinadas! (and I´m switching my private room for 140 Argentinian Peso ($30) for 90AR ($20)
Tomorrow I´ll take a day trip to nearby Tigre, Argentina- the pick up spot is Cafe Teatro- one of the oldest cafes in BA and an excellent example of Art Nouveau.
Wednesday- I plan to spend the day in Recoletta Cemetary photographing all the architecture, cats, and sculptures.
Thursday- I have a day trip planned for a Argentinian Ranch
Friday- I´ve decided to hop over to Uruguay for 4 nights. You can take a ferry from BA to Colonia, then a bus to Montevideo, and finally a ferry back to BA. 2 nights in Colonia- 2 nights in Montevideo
July 29-31 HI- Hostelling-Colonial, Colonia. Apparently it´s easy to rent a scooter in Colonia so I may be anle to check out some of the countryside!
July 31- Aug 2 The Red Hostel, Montevideo.
I hope bring a treasure of photographs.
Aug 2- Aug 6 back at Hostel Telmo Tango, Buenos Aries where I´ll explore the art museums, rent a bike, return to La Boca and relax before my flight home.
So.. off we go and cost be damned.. I´ll stock up on those $1 Empinadas! (and I´m switching my private room for 140 Argentinian Peso ($30) for 90AR ($20)
Tomorrow I´ll take a day trip to nearby Tigre, Argentina- the pick up spot is Cafe Teatro- one of the oldest cafes in BA and an excellent example of Art Nouveau.
Wednesday- I plan to spend the day in Recoletta Cemetary photographing all the architecture, cats, and sculptures.
Thursday- I have a day trip planned for a Argentinian Ranch
Friday- I´ve decided to hop over to Uruguay for 4 nights. You can take a ferry from BA to Colonia, then a bus to Montevideo, and finally a ferry back to BA. 2 nights in Colonia- 2 nights in Montevideo
July 29-31 HI- Hostelling-Colonial, Colonia. Apparently it´s easy to rent a scooter in Colonia so I may be anle to check out some of the countryside!
July 31- Aug 2 The Red Hostel, Montevideo.
I hope bring a treasure of photographs.
Aug 2- Aug 6 back at Hostel Telmo Tango, Buenos Aries where I´ll explore the art museums, rent a bike, return to La Boca and relax before my flight home.
Monday, July 25, 2011
Day 3- La Boca
Today while looking for another hostel, I found a bike rental and booked a tour to La Boca.. was approx 3-4 hrs and a lovely ride thorugh Buenos Aires. They say that La Boca is very dangerous. That there are bag snatchers and robbers. People will hyjack your cab and force you off your bike and rob you in plain site. I decided to not take my camera and bag in fear of these occurances..
It was a very run down area. It kind of reminded me of some parts of the French Quarter and its hard to not feel that some of the accounts are exaggerated. People say that the French Quarter is very dangerous and to not walk on the off streets. It felt the same way in La Boca.
It was an odd tourist trap in a poor part of town because someone painted the tin shacks different colors. So, a few reaturants, novelty shops and street tango now exist along side stray cats and resentful youth. It was colorful, but gritty and riddled with police. I suppose the nightime brings La Boca a different color. I would like to go back.. I will take the bus that drops you off on Caminito Street and picks you up again.. Get my photos and leave. There are police everywhere anyway.
We rode along the waterfront with it´s shiny glass condos, waterfront walkway and obligatory restaurants and if I wanted to I could be in Bristol- walking the waterfront, finding the cheapo stand for a bacon sarny with tea and milk.. but in this case- the grilled sausage on a bun with pepper and a lemondade. Or- I could have been in Yaletown.. they looked alike.
The drivers in BA are ruthless. I was sandwiched behind a bus and taxis vying for position. The street lights are barely honored and most cross walks are not controlled or are 4 way stops... you go if you can and I´ve personally witnessed at least a dozen closs calls. Dont worry.. If I have a bike.. I will be careful.
Tomorrow, I will take a tour to Tigre
Wednesday I will spend the day in Ricoletta Cemetary
Thursday I will take a day trip to a Argentina Ranch
Friday- I think I will go to Colonia, Uruguay and mae my way to Montevideo and then back again to BA before I fly home.
Do I love it- no. I can see why it is called the Paris of South America. It appears very European.
But like it´s far away sister Havana whom they share the same neoclassical and art nouveau architecture, it is lacking a verve.. a thing.. like the old cars and Salsa music..It has wrought iron balconies like Havana but is missing the soulful jazz and beauty. Like it´s counterpart, Paris.. it´s lacking the world reknowned museums, landmarks and food. Tango seems to be kitchy when you see pimply thugs in cheap and poorly fitted suits dancing with girls in cheap velour dresses on the street for tourists...the empenades sold in greasy corner markets. Its run down and dusty. Sooty. The people don´t smile.. there´s a severity in the hustle from one place to another. The royal palace where Eva Peron stood to cheer on the masses is a rich shade of coral because the white paste was mixed with pig fat which contained blood and thus.. was painted pink. Maybe I need to see the countryside and get out of San Telmo.
It was a very run down area. It kind of reminded me of some parts of the French Quarter and its hard to not feel that some of the accounts are exaggerated. People say that the French Quarter is very dangerous and to not walk on the off streets. It felt the same way in La Boca.
It was an odd tourist trap in a poor part of town because someone painted the tin shacks different colors. So, a few reaturants, novelty shops and street tango now exist along side stray cats and resentful youth. It was colorful, but gritty and riddled with police. I suppose the nightime brings La Boca a different color. I would like to go back.. I will take the bus that drops you off on Caminito Street and picks you up again.. Get my photos and leave. There are police everywhere anyway.
We rode along the waterfront with it´s shiny glass condos, waterfront walkway and obligatory restaurants and if I wanted to I could be in Bristol- walking the waterfront, finding the cheapo stand for a bacon sarny with tea and milk.. but in this case- the grilled sausage on a bun with pepper and a lemondade. Or- I could have been in Yaletown.. they looked alike.
The drivers in BA are ruthless. I was sandwiched behind a bus and taxis vying for position. The street lights are barely honored and most cross walks are not controlled or are 4 way stops... you go if you can and I´ve personally witnessed at least a dozen closs calls. Dont worry.. If I have a bike.. I will be careful.
Tomorrow, I will take a tour to Tigre
Wednesday I will spend the day in Ricoletta Cemetary
Thursday I will take a day trip to a Argentina Ranch
Friday- I think I will go to Colonia, Uruguay and mae my way to Montevideo and then back again to BA before I fly home.
Do I love it- no. I can see why it is called the Paris of South America. It appears very European.
But like it´s far away sister Havana whom they share the same neoclassical and art nouveau architecture, it is lacking a verve.. a thing.. like the old cars and Salsa music..It has wrought iron balconies like Havana but is missing the soulful jazz and beauty. Like it´s counterpart, Paris.. it´s lacking the world reknowned museums, landmarks and food. Tango seems to be kitchy when you see pimply thugs in cheap and poorly fitted suits dancing with girls in cheap velour dresses on the street for tourists...the empenades sold in greasy corner markets. Its run down and dusty. Sooty. The people don´t smile.. there´s a severity in the hustle from one place to another. The royal palace where Eva Peron stood to cheer on the masses is a rich shade of coral because the white paste was mixed with pig fat which contained blood and thus.. was painted pink. Maybe I need to see the countryside and get out of San Telmo.
Day 3: moving
The Telmo Tango Hostel is nice.. don´t get me wrong.. it´s lovely at first glance. It´s all art nouveau and skeleton keys, begonias and robin egg blue. The hot hot showers and available internet are great. Location is super..but..
The beds are lumpy, the sheets are thin and I´m not sure where the bug bite on my ankle came from. The tiny single frame bunk bed is rickity..the lighting is dim and although the room has a pretty window with a begonia planter, the room is a bit dismal really. I´m moving down the street to a hostel I look at initally and passed up.
Ayers Portenos Hostel -I looked at the rooms and the mattresses and crisp white sheets are enough for me to switch. I´m going to take a dorm room as well. Better for my hair. Better for me.
I´m going to use the money I save to rent a bike so I can peruse the streets of Buenos Airies for photos easier. how bad could La Boca be, which is a great neighborhood for photos but has a bad part of town reputation be when you are on a bike??
Update:
2 girls walking oyt of the hostel said it was horrible and noisy. So I went for a walk to find another and finding the places booked. Le sigh.. it might be good to reserve what I have and bear it as it´s safe and relatively quiet.
Stumbled up on a bike tour company.. I have a bike trip to La Boca.. they advised me to not ride there alone as its too dangerous. People have been stopped on their bikes and robbed. I didn´t think of that concept when I was riding around the 9th ward in New Orleans.
BA reminds me of New Orleans and New York rolled into one. Tall buildings, narrow one was streets and when it rains its muggy like hell.
The beds are lumpy, the sheets are thin and I´m not sure where the bug bite on my ankle came from. The tiny single frame bunk bed is rickity..the lighting is dim and although the room has a pretty window with a begonia planter, the room is a bit dismal really. I´m moving down the street to a hostel I look at initally and passed up.
Ayers Portenos Hostel -I looked at the rooms and the mattresses and crisp white sheets are enough for me to switch. I´m going to take a dorm room as well. Better for my hair. Better for me.
I´m going to use the money I save to rent a bike so I can peruse the streets of Buenos Airies for photos easier. how bad could La Boca be, which is a great neighborhood for photos but has a bad part of town reputation be when you are on a bike??
Update:
2 girls walking oyt of the hostel said it was horrible and noisy. So I went for a walk to find another and finding the places booked. Le sigh.. it might be good to reserve what I have and bear it as it´s safe and relatively quiet.
Stumbled up on a bike tour company.. I have a bike trip to La Boca.. they advised me to not ride there alone as its too dangerous. People have been stopped on their bikes and robbed. I didn´t think of that concept when I was riding around the 9th ward in New Orleans.
BA reminds me of New Orleans and New York rolled into one. Tall buildings, narrow one was streets and when it rains its muggy like hell.
Sunday, July 24, 2011
Day 2.. the feria
The street market of San Telmo is about 15 blocks long with (what´s advertized) 270 stalls. They block off Defensa Street to traffic and the street fills with people and crafters, artists, antique and junk markets. Peòple walk through the crowns selling fresh squeezed orange juice, "cafe columbia" and trays of tarts, pastries and raosted nuts. I didn´t buy anything but some lunch in this cafe, Territorio.. I had a grilled cheese and tomato sandwich with fried potatoes.. its hard to order a salad with no olives or blue cheese and I have to be careful about meat..they like to call it " in the pink" aka not cooked very much for someone who likes staek almost blackened... I know I will leave Argentina with a Yerba Mate gourd and bombilla but for now I know I will see more markets and wonderful places.
I´m not sure what is getting more attention.. my shaved and patchy hair or my tattoos.. but I spent the day showing off both and I got a lot of looks. It´s really challenging to not believe the stares are judgemental and negative. If I look in a window, I feel I look weird looking. It´s hard to not retreat. You hear people laugh and you think its about you. The waitress in the cafe ignores you. Someone looks at you and then looks away quickly when you notice them.. I assume its because of my hair. I try and remember people who will judge me negatively- I don´t want around me anyway. People who are kind and understanding who will let me move though a hair pulling phase of my life- I would rather. There´s hiding my hair pulling and there´s leaving it alone and being comfortable and sometimes that means not hiding it.
Maybe tomorrow I will move to a nearby hostel.. it is a few dollars cheaper and has much better mattresses. the lockers are in the hall though. I´m trying to organize my days.. BA is a big city and there is much to see..
Cementerio de la Recoleta
El Abasto Market
El Molino- a old art nouveau building.. "the windmill"
San Telmo Square for the Tango
A real Tango show
La Boca neighborhood
Nearby Tigre- a small town with canals and boat markets
Colonia, Uruguay (and maybe Montevideo)
I´m not sure what is getting more attention.. my shaved and patchy hair or my tattoos.. but I spent the day showing off both and I got a lot of looks. It´s really challenging to not believe the stares are judgemental and negative. If I look in a window, I feel I look weird looking. It´s hard to not retreat. You hear people laugh and you think its about you. The waitress in the cafe ignores you. Someone looks at you and then looks away quickly when you notice them.. I assume its because of my hair. I try and remember people who will judge me negatively- I don´t want around me anyway. People who are kind and understanding who will let me move though a hair pulling phase of my life- I would rather. There´s hiding my hair pulling and there´s leaving it alone and being comfortable and sometimes that means not hiding it.
Maybe tomorrow I will move to a nearby hostel.. it is a few dollars cheaper and has much better mattresses. the lockers are in the hall though. I´m trying to organize my days.. BA is a big city and there is much to see..
Cementerio de la Recoleta
El Abasto Market
El Molino- a old art nouveau building.. "the windmill"
San Telmo Square for the Tango
A real Tango show
La Boca neighborhood
Nearby Tigre- a small town with canals and boat markets
Colonia, Uruguay (and maybe Montevideo)
´Day 2: "We´re quiet, no worry."
That´s what the hostel said in our email exchange when I booked. That´s not been my experience though. the front desk is run by a muscle bound guy who sports tank tops and health shakes. He blasts american rock from the 70´s. The hostel is plaster walls and 20 foot ceilings and there is a mad echo in here.
Last night, a bunch of travelers were congreated in the kitchen area which also happens to be the courtyard my tiny room overlooks so from midnight until 2 I was awake. My room is tiny and dim. The bed is lumpy, the sheets are thin and I wondered if there was bed bugs. Breakfast is slim with coffee, cereal and grim looking pastries and I´m trying to stay away from good looking pastries.
It´s otherwise a lovely place with art nouveau details, a beautiful patio and well located.. but there are many more hostels.. so I may look around. I am definitly going to Tigre and I found a bike tour company that I can take day trips with, even to Tigre.. but I haven´t decided if I´ll stay.
It was silly of me to bring my Ipad. It wont pick up a weak wireless signal and is an expensive item to loose. It´s fine for reading at night but not much else. I packed too many Tshirts and light cardigans but I may need a jacket. Its like a cool fall day here. I did pack a rain coat in case it rains.. but my feet will get wet..
You never really know what you´ll find until you get there.
Im off to explore the street markets of San Telmo today.
Last night, a bunch of travelers were congreated in the kitchen area which also happens to be the courtyard my tiny room overlooks so from midnight until 2 I was awake. My room is tiny and dim. The bed is lumpy, the sheets are thin and I wondered if there was bed bugs. Breakfast is slim with coffee, cereal and grim looking pastries and I´m trying to stay away from good looking pastries.
It´s otherwise a lovely place with art nouveau details, a beautiful patio and well located.. but there are many more hostels.. so I may look around. I am definitly going to Tigre and I found a bike tour company that I can take day trips with, even to Tigre.. but I haven´t decided if I´ll stay.
It was silly of me to bring my Ipad. It wont pick up a weak wireless signal and is an expensive item to loose. It´s fine for reading at night but not much else. I packed too many Tshirts and light cardigans but I may need a jacket. Its like a cool fall day here. I did pack a rain coat in case it rains.. but my feet will get wet..
You never really know what you´ll find until you get there.
Im off to explore the street markets of San Telmo today.
Saturday, July 23, 2011
Day 1- Checking In
A 14 hour flight seemed daunting. It was 4 hrs longer than the longest one I had taken. At first it seemed like it was going to be a brutal experience, with a baby less than a year old in the seat next to me as well as nothing of any interest in the entertainment system. But, I boarded at 11 and was asleep by 12:30 and when I woke it was 8:30 and we´d be landing in Santiago in less than 2 hrs. Breakfast was on its way and all of a sudden I was on a brief layover and finally in the Buenos Airies airport.
My first steps outside was it was like a cool Canadian autumn day. Sunny, comfortable, but cooler than the tropical Toronto weather from which I left. Driving down the highways towards the city..I noticed the frequency of seeing cars parked under trees in the grassy areas off of the highway or where the road curves to create an overpass.. People were having picnics. Many many people were picnicing in ¨parks¨ off of the highway.
We passed a part of town that had I known better.. could have been Havana with it´s neoclassical architecture, wrought iron balconies and sooty, worn out facades. Buenos Airies looks like a mash up of Barcelona, Havana and Paris right now. It seems quiet and run down and I can hardly wait to find it´s charms as I know there are many.
By the way..
My first steps outside was it was like a cool Canadian autumn day. Sunny, comfortable, but cooler than the tropical Toronto weather from which I left. Driving down the highways towards the city..I noticed the frequency of seeing cars parked under trees in the grassy areas off of the highway or where the road curves to create an overpass.. People were having picnics. Many many people were picnicing in ¨parks¨ off of the highway.
We passed a part of town that had I known better.. could have been Havana with it´s neoclassical architecture, wrought iron balconies and sooty, worn out facades. Buenos Airies looks like a mash up of Barcelona, Havana and Paris right now. It seems quiet and run down and I can hardly wait to find it´s charms as I know there are many.
By the way..
Thursday, July 21, 2011
making plans
I've been in Toronto for the last few days for a wee work thing. Meetings in a nice hotel, all air condioned and big comfy beds and supplied food.
It's 49'C with the humidity today. That's hot.
I didn't realize I needed to check out of my big comfy hotel the day before my flight so I'm in Toronto for an extra day. I had a bit of a weird situation where I thought I might stay with the one person I know, but it's seriously not a comfortable situation and we're not that good of friends.. so I baled.
Best thing is that 1 block away was the greenest hostel in North America... The Planet Traveler.. it's hot, but with private showers, laundry, WiFi and $30 and a zillion times more comfortable than a greasy couch of someone I used to know 20 years ago.. it's a reprieve from the heat and the city.
Tomorrow, I fly to Buenos Airies. Exciting or what??
It's 49'C with the humidity today. That's hot.
I didn't realize I needed to check out of my big comfy hotel the day before my flight so I'm in Toronto for an extra day. I had a bit of a weird situation where I thought I might stay with the one person I know, but it's seriously not a comfortable situation and we're not that good of friends.. so I baled.
Best thing is that 1 block away was the greenest hostel in North America... The Planet Traveler.. it's hot, but with private showers, laundry, WiFi and $30 and a zillion times more comfortable than a greasy couch of someone I used to know 20 years ago.. it's a reprieve from the heat and the city.
Tomorrow, I fly to Buenos Airies. Exciting or what??
Thursday, July 14, 2011
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Saturday, June 4, 2011
crossing off things on the list
3 things I have always wanted to do are coming into existence..
1. I will take a hot air balloon ride in the next few weeks. My mom bought it for my 40th birthday. I'm totally excited at this and the resulting photos.
2. I will cross the equator. I have always wanted to see water spiral down the drain in the other direction.
3. I will be spending 2 glorious weeks exploring the delights of Buenos Aires. I only wish it was for more than 2 weeks but the city has some seriously amazing art nouveau and art deco to be seen. Oh. Latin America.. I've been wanting to say hello.
1. I will take a hot air balloon ride in the next few weeks. My mom bought it for my 40th birthday. I'm totally excited at this and the resulting photos.
2. I will cross the equator. I have always wanted to see water spiral down the drain in the other direction.
3. I will be spending 2 glorious weeks exploring the delights of Buenos Aires. I only wish it was for more than 2 weeks but the city has some seriously amazing art nouveau and art deco to be seen. Oh. Latin America.. I've been wanting to say hello.
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