of being a tourist

It's remarkable what landmarks tourists have created. Nearly everywhere you go there is a famous landmark or something to "rub for good luck". There was the sculpture on the Charles Bridge, and there is a a sculpture in Brussels as well. The thing about the sculpture to rub for good luck in Brussels is that it is right next to a marker for one of Brussels Art Nouveau architects and is a beautiful example of the craftsmanship. The crowd was busy photographing and touching this sculpture while completely ignoring the masterpiece right next to it. I ask someone nearby, "Do you know what it is or what it is for?" referring to the good luck charm, she laughed and said she didn't. I asked her if she knew why she was filming it. She laughed again and walked away.

Such is the case of the Manneken-Pis. It's just this little statue not more than 2 or 3 feet high. Various legends abound, but most likely it was a drinking spout, albeit, a humorous one. By the way, I think there is an underground river that runs beneath Brussels, which is in fact connected to the sewage system. Water from this stream is used to create some of the Belgian beers. I think it was Victor Hugo that said something about residents of Brussels drinking their own piss every day; Perhaps the Manneken-Pis is a joke on that.

Regardless, it's famous, and most likely so because of throngs of tourists who have made it so. On it's own, it's just a pissing sculpture. Tons of sculptures that spew water are all over Europe. But the question is, why do we, as tourists, continue to flock to these unlikely monuments. Does it add to our experiences of visiting a place? Does it verify we were there? Does it connect us to the bigger whole, make us feel more complete?

Would you go to Lourdes or Roquefort and not visit the caves? Of course not. Paris without Jim Morrison's grave? Perhaps. But not the Eiffel Tower or Notre Damn? Probably not. Somethings are landmarks and have gathered true legendary status. But maybe it's a homage to something dear to you ( are you a fan of Mr. Morrison?). If you are a fan of the Parisian literary greats; Hemingway, Sartre, ..) then you go to Cafe De Flore and Cafe Deux Magot. Problem is so does EVERYBODY else. Then it becomes the point when what could be a true landmark, in fact becomes a tourist marker.

And back to the Manneken- Pis: landmark or tourist marker? Why would you go see a 2 foot high sculpture of a little boy pissing?

I did. But I still want to know why.

when feeling low eat a big plate of salad

Curious how a wicked long and hot shower and a big plate of lettuce and Belgian Endive can perk you up. Or how a full day in the blazing sun looking at architectural masterpiece's with no one to express the amazement and wonderment you feel can bring you down. Did I mention that Brussels is also a fairly dirty, sooty city and they have unbelievable architectural gems laying in ruins. I saw a few buildings that looked like squats-all boarded up. It would be like walking down Hastings in Vancouver except the buildings would be from the 17-18th centuries. It's a bit depressing, as you can imagine.

I have decided to go to Brugge for the nights of April 12-13-14. I am considering it my holiday from my holiday. It's slightly cheaper than Brussels and maybe I'll splurge on a boat trip down the canals or just slowly wander the medieval streets. Apparently there is a pretty good flea market on Saturday too.

Thanks to the "farm" for the well wishes. I almost forgot that it was Easter. I wish I could have been there. When I saw the message from the "farm" I only concluded that there had been a wiener roast in the tree line since technically there isn't a farm anymore!!

oh woe

I'm lonely.

It's not easy travelling, navigating metros and trams, crowds, grocery stores, finding hostels, not loosing anything and having fun all by yourself and then no one to share it with. I kind of miss my 2 hostel mates in Paris. At the end of the day we shared what we did and not in hand gestures and broken English. However, if I was travelling with someone, would I have clocked 18.39 km around central Brussels today? It's a give and take. But it's tough. I feel exhausted and that I need a holiday from the big cities. I can't seem to navigate the phones in Brussels as I really want to call family to say hello.

No one cares what you had for breakfast but...

Yes, I know no one cares but today I thought it was blog worthy.

I wasn't sure about this Brussels hostel. Dodgy neighborhood, sterile hospital like atmosphere, etc.. But I'm sold on it now that I have had breakfast. 2 types of bread- baguette and rye that come with an assortment of jams, cheeses, or Nutella, 2 choices of cereal, coffee/tea, orange juice and sweetened or non sweetened yogurt.

I could just eat a huge breakfast, snack lightly thoughout the day and then fill up the next morning.

Now I just need a decent map and to feel less like I have the flu, but flue bedamned, I am seeking out every nook and cranny of Brussels Art Nouveau!!

Little Zorro

IMGP4951, originally uploaded by smoooch.

She was playing with 2 little boys who were not dressed up. Very Sweet moment in a park I stumbled into not far from Champs Elysée.

Art Nouveau??

Well..

I managed to not get on a bus for Transylvania and have safely arrived in Brussels. I have to be honest and admit that I don't like it so far. It is drab and dirty. The metro stops are devoid of design or color. There are also packs of North African men pooling around the corners of streets and metro stops. In fact, there are parts that remind me of Morocco. Gaggles of women with their hair and bodies covered up in unattractive and bland garb, never travelling alone. Tea cafes with no women inside etc... And unlike Paris, very few people speak English.

My hostel is not far from the city centre. Hostel Generation Europe. I'm not sure but I think this was either a hospital or a school at one time. Most likely a hospital. Lino everywhere and long dark corridors. Very sterile but secure and clean. The Internet is cheaper than it was in Paris and readily available. No USB port connection that I can see, so pictures may have to wait.

I am also feeling a bit sick. I have a sore throat and sneezy. Eating lots of apples and oranges and drinking lots of water and juice when I can. Early to bed tonight for another fun filled day of walking. I think this is the only day so far where I have not clocked over 10000 steps. My feet could use the rest.

Last night I went out with my 2 roommates from my lovely Parisian hostel; Stephanie & Stephanie-both from Melbourne. They were really lovely girls and very funny too. They'd come to Paris to stay and work and were on a quest for an apartment. We went out and had a true Parisian hot chocolate (which cost 4 Euro each, but SOOOO good).

Hopefully, Brussels will step up and enchant me with its Art Nouveau.

xoxo
Jill

Au revoir Paris.

IMGP4890, originally uploaded by smoooch.

I got up very early this morning and did my laundry so that I can start Brussels with clean underwear and socks. I went down to the Notre Damn and waited in the already long line for the towers to open at 10 am. I paid the charge (they must make millions at 7.50 Euros each person and hundreds every day!), and climbed all 432 stairs to the sky scraping top. It really had to be done for the Chimera's and Gargoyles.

Now for a quick lunch and a few snacks and I'm off to the bus for Brussels.

xoxo
Jill

If I could

If I had money as no worry, I would move to Paris and buy a little apartment with shuttered windows and a tiny balcony. I would get a cat or bring Ruby and I would enrol in French lessons. I would spend the afternoons in the park with a pique-nique and ride the metro everywhere I needed to go. It is an enchanting city, that's for sure.

It is my last night, I have thought about eating out in a small cafe patio, but it would be something to share; not as a traveller alone. Instead, I spent the money on a small gift for my sister, who is kindly sharing the responsibilites of my apt with Michael.

Today, I found that a whole lot of Canadian students are here for the 90th anniversary of Vimy Ridge; Actually, 1 student for every soldier killed. I saw a whole pack of Canadian students today and said hello.

I also went to the Sacre Coeur and explored Montmarte. Portrait artists everywhere. It was alot like selling France to the tourists!!

Off to the Notre Damn first thing to go up the towers and then to my bus for Brussels!!!!

xoxo
Jill

For Vince

For Vince, originally uploaded by smoooch.

Baisser

IMGP4918, originally uploaded by smoooch.

This is Brancusi's "The Kiss". It's on a grave in Montparnasse Cemetary.

the life in Paris

the life in Paris, originally uploaded by smoooch.

bonjour mademoiselle

IMGP4971, originally uploaded by smoooch.

have a seat

have a seat, originally uploaded by smoooch.

la fromage

la fromage, originally uploaded by smoooch.

covered the size of a small city

I really don't know if my pedometer is recording my activities correctly. Today it says I have walked 24123 steps or 17.85 km. I have been recording these numbers and its feirce how far I have walked:

39140, 15.65km
26265, 18.38km
9989, 6.99km
25960, 18.43km
22779, 16.17km
21749, 16.09km
11736, 8.68km
26885, ?km

See what I mean? Some of those are recorded over 2days but some are one day excurions. If I keep this up, I'll be too tired to explore Brussels.

Since I have arrived in Paris, I have walked down the Champ Eleesyes, Blvd St. Germain, all over Cemeterie Montparnasse and Pere Lachaise, Rue Royal, the area around the Moulin Rouge (I have never been to anything more anti climactic in my whole life; it looks nothing like the postcards, pictures, movies etc), the Left Bank, the Notre Damn, The Eiffel Tower (I decided to not go up, due to the massive line ups and ridiculous price), Musee de Orsay, up and down the boulevards, down kooky little streets. I'm plum tuckered out.

Speaking of prices, it's very expensive under the Euro. I bought a one litre bottle of water and it was 3 Euro which is almost $6!! You have to be very careful to buy things in supermarkets and neighborhood shops and not in touristy places. This internet session will run 1.50 Euro for 1/2 hr and that almost up...

I do have tons of pictures to upload, just need to find a place that will let you attach USB sticks and camera equipment.

xoxo Jill

another day in Paris

The hostel is really nice.An old hotel in Montmarte. Hardwood floors and good pillows. Breakfst included is a small baguette, jam, cofee:tea, and orange juice. Its a sunny, bright blue sky day in Paris. Im off to photograph the cemeteries and anything else I may find.

xoxox
Jill

IMGP4796, originally uploaded by smoooch.

a tragedy

I jumped on the Metro in search of those Metro stations decorated with the designs of Hector Guimard. I had not gone one stop, when the metro stopped functioning. The announcements were unintelligable but when everyone else was getting off, I followed suit. A few people were looking down at the tracks between the cars and I looked too. Someone had jumped in front of the train.

Paris, like Prague is swarming with people. But here they are Parisiens, not tourists. People beg on the streets and on the trains and more than not they are truly in need. Not at all like the young drug addicts that hang around on the streets in Vancouver. This city is constantly on the move. It's alot like New York but somehow different. Shorter maybe.

I came home early and bought a Boursin cheese, a baguette, some pasta and some orange juice. I feel like going to bed early tonight.

mishaps and misadventures

Cesky Krumlov was a wonderful little town. Very peaceful and quite, except for the 2 snorers in the same room with me. And despite all the free coffee I drank, which gave me terrible jitters which translated into horrifying anxiety, I really enjoyed my time there.

I took the 3 hour bus trip back to Prague to make my 10pm bus to Paris. I made a dash downtown to buy an English magazine and a few treats and went to the platform ' for the bus. It was already there along with a crowd waiting to get on. There was this group of gypsies (well not really, they just seemed to be trying to take all there belongings with them) haggling with the bus driver about their many bags. There was even a bathroom scale out to weigh each one. I thought to myself, where the hell am I going? But when they closed the luggage doors and I still had my backpack with me and they opened the doors to the bus, I jumped on.

I settled into my seat, looked around and noted the sketchy and dodgy eastern Europeans surrounding me, but I was happy to have the seat next to me free. There was a baby crying behind me and the smell of sweat, cheap cologne and various food products pierced the air acridly. This is going to be one hell of a 15 hr trip.

The bus roared to life and started to pull out and I thought to ask the nearest person, "This bus is going to Paris right?".

They shook their head and said no, Roma.

ROME!! HOLY SHIT.I jumped up and ran to the bus driver, "This bus is going to Rome? Not Paris?" The bus came to a stop. "What are you doing on this bus? We are going to Romania!"

I thought it was odd that no one looked at my ticket. Thank god I got off that bus when I did. Rest assured, I am in Paris now, at the hostel.

And it is fabulously stinky, polluted, smoggy, and fantstic. Just the way I remembered it.

The crowds from atop.

IMGP4700, originally uploaded by smoooch.

Here's a link for more info on Prague's Astronomical Clock.