Tuesday, May 6, 2008
adventure to Hersey
The train rolls into Casablanca late and to cheers of dusty and sweaty travellers. The man with a wrench cuts rusty wire and climbs onto the top. The trolley is broken- again. We wait. He hammers the trolley and attaches more wire. I take photos while we wait. A young man in a white shirt, old Frank Sinatra hat tipped to the front, watches me from behind his newspaper. He later gets off in a small ramshakle town and shuffles he black dress shoes in the dust.
Aboard to dusty and worn green velvet seats and broken windows, the same from 1917, I'm sure. We roll off into unknown places, slowly at first then picking up speed. This train is a death trap on rails and I wonder what I have goten myself into. It bounces and swerves. Resigned to my 3 peso fate, my head whips from side to side, my shoulder slams into the window at the train's velocity. It courses down on it's predetermined destiny of Mantanzas.
As I watch out the window at the Cuban countryside of wind wipped palms, dried grasses and tinshack farm houses, I notice something dark, large and unusual. It's a cow. It's falling down the ditch. Fallen when I focus my eyes against the distance. It's legs straight up, head twisted- one eye looking. We pass, but only to stop a short distance and then back up. Passengers crane their necks out the windows and doors swish open. The train hit the cow and we backed up to make sure of something. Not sure what as no one got out and helped the cow up.
When we arrived in Hershey- the site, I presume of a chocolate factory, I figured that maybe this train adventure was a bit too much. It would be another 2 hrs to Mantanzas and I had no water or food. I got off and sat down and pondered my fate in Hershey. As the train rumbled away, I wondered still what sort of adventure I had gotten myself into. The return train to Havana wouldn't be for 2 hrs.
He sat down with his translation book and spoke a little english. I waved to the other with the tattoo and motioned to mine. The 3 of us became an unoffical pack for the day. One who spoke a little, one who spoke none and a book. I wondered what the day had in store. We walked across the street and bought fresca limonada served in cut off beer bottles. We walked through Hershey and they pointed out the broken factory, the old hotel from 1920 that was near demolished, the police station. We went to a market and bought a pineapple and with a pocket knife cut peices for one another and washed our hands with bottled water. I said Ola! to everyone who passed and they laughed. We laughed.
I took photos of the beautiful and decrepet stately houses, left over from the chocolate boom. Photos of the horse cart taxi's and chickens in the street. I tried to bribe 3 girls with a peso for a photo but they went running away laughing. We bought breadsticks from a vendor and sweets from another. Laughing, I said the nonesense phrases in the Language book, "Does Hershey have a bullring?" "Does Hershey have a recycling program?" and I helped them learn the months of the year in English.
These 2 waited until the train arrived. It had to wait as another train on the track was broken. I made origami birds from ripped out pages from Lonely Planet Cuba and gave them to the little girls on the train. I folded origami boxes and made everyone laugh when I blew them up. They waited and entertained me for a long time and then both gave me a kiss when the train was leaving and we exchanged adios.
Now dark, the Hershey Electric Train rumbled, bounced, careened and crackled into the night. Large electric flashes from the working trolley flashed bright green and illumanated the scenery for a moment almost as brightly as my 2 compadras during the day.
Aboard to dusty and worn green velvet seats and broken windows, the same from 1917, I'm sure. We roll off into unknown places, slowly at first then picking up speed. This train is a death trap on rails and I wonder what I have goten myself into. It bounces and swerves. Resigned to my 3 peso fate, my head whips from side to side, my shoulder slams into the window at the train's velocity. It courses down on it's predetermined destiny of Mantanzas.
As I watch out the window at the Cuban countryside of wind wipped palms, dried grasses and tinshack farm houses, I notice something dark, large and unusual. It's a cow. It's falling down the ditch. Fallen when I focus my eyes against the distance. It's legs straight up, head twisted- one eye looking. We pass, but only to stop a short distance and then back up. Passengers crane their necks out the windows and doors swish open. The train hit the cow and we backed up to make sure of something. Not sure what as no one got out and helped the cow up.
When we arrived in Hershey- the site, I presume of a chocolate factory, I figured that maybe this train adventure was a bit too much. It would be another 2 hrs to Mantanzas and I had no water or food. I got off and sat down and pondered my fate in Hershey. As the train rumbled away, I wondered still what sort of adventure I had gotten myself into. The return train to Havana wouldn't be for 2 hrs.
He sat down with his translation book and spoke a little english. I waved to the other with the tattoo and motioned to mine. The 3 of us became an unoffical pack for the day. One who spoke a little, one who spoke none and a book. I wondered what the day had in store. We walked across the street and bought fresca limonada served in cut off beer bottles. We walked through Hershey and they pointed out the broken factory, the old hotel from 1920 that was near demolished, the police station. We went to a market and bought a pineapple and with a pocket knife cut peices for one another and washed our hands with bottled water. I said Ola! to everyone who passed and they laughed. We laughed.
I took photos of the beautiful and decrepet stately houses, left over from the chocolate boom. Photos of the horse cart taxi's and chickens in the street. I tried to bribe 3 girls with a peso for a photo but they went running away laughing. We bought breadsticks from a vendor and sweets from another. Laughing, I said the nonesense phrases in the Language book, "Does Hershey have a bullring?" "Does Hershey have a recycling program?" and I helped them learn the months of the year in English.
These 2 waited until the train arrived. It had to wait as another train on the track was broken. I made origami birds from ripped out pages from Lonely Planet Cuba and gave them to the little girls on the train. I folded origami boxes and made everyone laugh when I blew them up. They waited and entertained me for a long time and then both gave me a kiss when the train was leaving and we exchanged adios.
Now dark, the Hershey Electric Train rumbled, bounced, careened and crackled into the night. Large electric flashes from the working trolley flashed bright green and illumanated the scenery for a moment almost as brightly as my 2 compadras during the day.
Monday, May 5, 2008
taking the Hersey electric train
Today Iamleaving Havana Veija and crossing an inlet to Casablanca. There, is the only electric train in Cuba. In 1917 the Hershey Chocolate Company built this line to Matanzas. Apparently it stops at every pit stop along the way. I'm hoping it will create a breeze. And I'm hoping I won't get lost.
Like last night. I started walking and walkingand the next thing I knew I was in sketchy sketcheramaand it was dark and everywhere I looked it got darker and darker, weirder and weirder. I put my camera away. There are these bicyle taxis everywhere. I found one and 5 pesos later I was back at Hotel Florida (of which I can't help but pronounce it Flo-RI-da. Look it up. It was a Hemingway favorite.
Other observations:
The elevator in my building goesout of commision for certain hours of the day. It is a rickety thing and there is a crumbling cement gap between the floor and the elevator on the first floor. It jerks to a start and slammsto a stop on your desired floor. Yesterday it didn't want to stop and sort of jerked between floors. I was slightly drunk from Mohitos and didn'tseemto mind but fretted that I might sweat to death in it's chamnber. Maybe I should walk up the steap narrow stairwell instead??
Off in the distance someone is playing The Beatles "Yesterday" on oboe. The big hotel are cool oasis with internet and cheezy music.
Off for the Hersey Train!
xoxo
Jill
Like last night. I started walking and walkingand the next thing I knew I was in sketchy sketcheramaand it was dark and everywhere I looked it got darker and darker, weirder and weirder. I put my camera away. There are these bicyle taxis everywhere. I found one and 5 pesos later I was back at Hotel Florida (of which I can't help but pronounce it Flo-RI-da. Look it up. It was a Hemingway favorite.
Other observations:
The elevator in my building goesout of commision for certain hours of the day. It is a rickety thing and there is a crumbling cement gap between the floor and the elevator on the first floor. It jerks to a start and slammsto a stop on your desired floor. Yesterday it didn't want to stop and sort of jerked between floors. I was slightly drunk from Mohitos and didn'tseemto mind but fretted that I might sweat to death in it's chamnber. Maybe I should walk up the steap narrow stairwell instead??
Off in the distance someone is playing The Beatles "Yesterday" on oboe. The big hotel are cool oasis with internet and cheezy music.
Off for the Hersey Train!
xoxo
Jill
Sunday, May 4, 2008
veija
At the end of the day I see these cars belching caustic fumes, rolling down the slick ashphalt streets packed with Cubans like salty sardines in a blue tin can. Transportation is dismal. If there are buses, there are no route maps. They are inevitably packed if you see one, or the bus stop has 50 people waving bits of paper in their faces in effort to create a breeze.
It's hot.
And the women wear the tighest clothes. Only tourists are in gauzy coton skirts. I packed foolishly. I will not wear the jeans and sweater I packed for Toronto. You sweat geting dressed. I will likely wash out and wear everyday my cotton cargo shorts and my 2 coton tops.
The food is meat and bread focused. Anyone who says you will find times of no food is mistaken. You can get food everywhere and all hours. There are even ber vending machines on the street. It's hard to find vegetables. Salad is cabbage and carrot. Probably because they last the longest in the heat. I did have a cheese platter in hopes of Cuban cheese, but it was cheddar, edam, and parmesan. The bread was slightly toasted and stale. The lemondade was real.
No one sems to have a decent coffee.
All the music is slight cuban versions of bad lounge music. Barry Manilow type stuff. No Gypsy Kings yet, thank god. Buena Vista Social Club is closed.
BTW- this is not my photo, but I have sen this frame- old car, many cubans investigating. Another day and it's impossible to take a bad photo.
Saturday, May 3, 2008
Habana
Umm. she sits here and sells Cuba to the tourists. Today she is all in red. Mmn. I will watch and see what she is wearing tomorrow.
I look forward to showing my own photos. I have found it is difficult to take a bad one.
Having lots of fun on my 1st day in Havana. It's very beautiful, lovely and hot.
Habana
All is well in Havana.
Strange and wonderful, old, hot, busy, crumbling and lively.
Last night I got on my flight and I wish it hadn't have been in the middle of the night or the view from the window would have been more spectacular.
Observations of last night:
-was photographed coming into the country
-pass through security and xray of luggage coming in to Cuba
-woman standing next to me at the luggage carousel was smoking
-everyone wanted to be my cab driver
-the cab ride from the airport was fast
-lots of car stopped on the side of the road
-people standing around along side the road
-this was at 2:30 am??
-saw buses full of people going places
-lost 20 pesos somewhere between money exchange and counting money on casa bed
My Casa Particulare or room in a private home is very nice. Only a top sheet and another sheet on the bed and 2 pillow. You don't need anything else. It's hot. Very hot.
My host was very pleased when I gave her a giant slab of soap. I was asked for soap when talking to someone. Apparently it is hard to get?
My Casa is on Calle Obispo. A very busy and lively street in Old Havana.
More observations:
-lots of selling Cuba to the tourists
-someone dressed up as Che, another woman in traditional costume smoking cigars.
-small bottle of water 5 pesos, a few blocks a way- 1 litre is 1.50
-lots of small stray dogs. Some of them look dead just laying on the ground. I feel sorry for them.
-it's impossible to take a bad photo.
-lots of old fords just like you hear.
-the big hotels are havans of coolness and luxury.
-found one with this Internet access and the whole lobby and entrance is beautifully tiled.
Everything is well. It's lovely and I'm having a great time. I feel safe, but sweaty.
xoxo
Jill
Strange and wonderful, old, hot, busy, crumbling and lively.
Last night I got on my flight and I wish it hadn't have been in the middle of the night or the view from the window would have been more spectacular.
Observations of last night:
-was photographed coming into the country
-pass through security and xray of luggage coming in to Cuba
-woman standing next to me at the luggage carousel was smoking
-everyone wanted to be my cab driver
-the cab ride from the airport was fast
-lots of car stopped on the side of the road
-people standing around along side the road
-this was at 2:30 am??
-saw buses full of people going places
-lost 20 pesos somewhere between money exchange and counting money on casa bed
My Casa Particulare or room in a private home is very nice. Only a top sheet and another sheet on the bed and 2 pillow. You don't need anything else. It's hot. Very hot.
My host was very pleased when I gave her a giant slab of soap. I was asked for soap when talking to someone. Apparently it is hard to get?
My Casa is on Calle Obispo. A very busy and lively street in Old Havana.
More observations:
-lots of selling Cuba to the tourists
-someone dressed up as Che, another woman in traditional costume smoking cigars.
-small bottle of water 5 pesos, a few blocks a way- 1 litre is 1.50
-lots of small stray dogs. Some of them look dead just laying on the ground. I feel sorry for them.
-it's impossible to take a bad photo.
-lots of old fords just like you hear.
-the big hotels are havans of coolness and luxury.
-found one with this Internet access and the whole lobby and entrance is beautifully tiled.
Everything is well. It's lovely and I'm having a great time. I feel safe, but sweaty.
xoxo
Jill
Thursday, May 1, 2008
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
chelsea garden
Good news for the Chelsea Hotel. The oppressive and diabolical management staff that ousted long time manager, Stanley Bard has been fired.
Bard is largely responsible for fostering the bohemian spirit of the Chelsea- long allowing people to defer rent payments to art. He turned an eye to the rock musicians, drunkard authors and creative spirits and let them roam free through the halls and gilded banisters.
I hope he get's his job back.
Good news!!
Monday, April 28, 2008
in case you were wondering...
I'm off to Cuba in a day or two. I hope to successfully remove myself from the internet. If you see an update- be surprised, very surprised that I have torn myself away from old cars, mohitos, and the fact that I am in Havana.
xoxo
Jill
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
"Convert the World to Your Methods"
not happy 1, originally uploaded by jill y.
Tips for getting a great tattoo:
1. ask for a quote
2. confirm work and time line involved
I have a lovely tattoo on my right arm (showing left in the photo), in a beautiful Art Nouveau design of wheat and rosebuds. It shaded with black and grey ink, with white ink. Over time, this has turned to a bluish- grey. I commissioned a complimenting piece for my other arm. Same style, wheat, this time with open blooms and barbed wire.
I booked my appointment and went through the back and forth of designs. I was not told of the fact my chosen artist was booked to the yingyang or offered a 2nd booking. I sat for the initial outline and when told I would wait 7 months for a 2nd appointment, asked for an alternative. She would see me after hours at an increased rate from 160/hr to 180/hr. I agreed.
side note: my 2nd appointment clearly interfered with some plans with a friend as the friend showed up and was told, "sorry, Jill has an appointment." Said friend returned with an hour left on the session. After paying $700, the friend said, quote: "Now get lost!" and right in front of the tattoist. Clearly it was fucked up attempt to cover her annoyance of her "friend time" interrupted by my tattoo booking. The next day I saw the same girl in a grocery store and point blank told her to her face it was "really rude", "made me feel like shit after sitting for a 4 hr tattoo and $700 later" and "it had really bothered me and I was glad to get it off my chest." I do believe the choice to speak my mind has affected the future course of my tattoo.
After my piece healed, it was hard not to notice and wonder what exactly I had paid for. The lines were noticeable fainter, paler and washed out. Lines that had been tattooed TWICE. This is not fun on sensitive spots. So- I called to discuss. Being that my tattoo artist is "so booked up", you can't just walk in and talk to her. The receptionist said to write an email so I did and because I continue to be pissed at the $1100 dollars I "spent" getting this amount of work, the rudeness of her friend in front of her, and the lack communicated "time lines" or cost.. I'm posting the emails unedited except to remove names.
From:
Sent: April 1, 2008 8:52 PM
To:
Subject: wheat tattoo
Hi ________,
I meant to write this a lot sooner than today.
Without trying to offend you- I’ll just jump to the point.
I’m having a few concerns with the tattoo on my left arm. The
This
The tattoo line work has been done twice and shading once but the
I did mention to you that I wanted the flowers to be a light washed
I’m not sure where to go from here. I would prefer that you sat me
Please let me know what your thoughts are on this and where we can
Thanks,
Jill
From________
Date: April 11, 2008 1:09:03 PM PDT (CA)
To: ________
Subject: RE: wheat tattoo
Hi ________,
I haven’t heard back from you regarding the email I sent earlier.
I have attached pictures that show the issues I am unhappy about.
I would like to hear your response about this. I don’t know if I
I
Thanks for your time,
Jill
Sent:April 15, 2008 8:42 PM
To: ________
Subject: wheat tattoo
Hi Jill.
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you as I was away in
She has now read your e-mails and has asked me to relay the following information.
________absolutely did understand that you wanted the two pieces to match in look, design, tone and shading but as you wanted the 2nd arm to be shades of grey as opposed to black lines and shading (or the colors of the original) it is a process which takes time. The look would have always been somewhat different as the first arm had green and white in it, but would have been complimentary and well matched. She was clear on your intention for the flowers but they had not yet been started.
The cost for the 2nd session was $80 above what it would have been at the regular rate and was proposed by you as compensation for getting in immediately and not waiting the full 8 months for a standard opening.
For ________ there is the additional issue of your missed March 12th apt with no notice. We were unable to fill that spot on such short notice and so lost income on that day.
________ understands that at this point you are unhappy with your piece but feels fully confident that by the time your final session was complete your pieces would have been completed as per your original request. She does not feel that there is cause for her to complete your tattoo free of charge. She is willing to finish your piece but it would be at her regular rate and in the time frame that her current bookings allow. She understands if you choose to get your piece finished elsewhere as the two of you seem to have reached a point where your views differ significantly.
Please let us know if you would like to book a further apt and if not she wishes you well.
Thanks
________
From: ________
Sent: Tue, 15-4-2008 9:14pm
To: ________
Cc: ________
Subject: RE: wheat tattoo
Hi ________
Thanks for the response.
I'll take a moment to comment back...
The entire look of the 2nd arm was to match the 1st, as Teresa understood in "look, design, tone and shading". My first arm is shades of grey with white and black line work. Currently, the basic black line work of the 2ndndtattoo is noticeably paler than the other arm and has been tattooed twice. Regrettably, it was not discussed openly the “time it would take”.
My right arm or 1ststtattoo does not have green in it. It was done with black, white and grey ink in shades of grey and a very light pink in the rosebuds.
I apologize for missing my booked appointment but as that was booked after hours; I am unclear how Teresa lost income on that day with the short notice preventing her from filling the spot. I was unaware she normally booked after hour appointments and only did so by special request and additional cost. Once again, my apologies for any inconvenience.
I am surprised that an expression of my disappointment, and the request for discussion along with what I felt might be a solution is met with a statement that our view points “appear to differ significantly”. I was hoping to be able to meet a compromise of sorts, if possible.
I continue to be disappointed in the result of the current tattoo with the length of time and cost incurred thus far. With ________'s response of how to continue forward and with the consultations I have had with other tattoo artists of the work, I feel that I am better suited to have the tattoo completed in a more agreeable timeframe, to my schedule and wallet with someone else.
Thanks again for relaying the information and the follow up.
not happy 2, originally uploaded by jill y.
By the way- both these tattooes cost the SAME- $1100.00, but she stands behind her work??
So let this be a lesson. Ask what they are doing. How long they are doing it for and how much they think they will eventually milk from your wallet. If their friends are point blank rude in front of their customers- think again about where you take your business.
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Friday, April 11, 2008
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
when you haven't had enought sleep
Catherine invited me over. She said she had chili. I asked- do you have the cheddar for on top?? I was hungry and in search of comfort food.
I walked into her kitchen and looked at a bowl on the counter. I thought this is kind of unusual Chili. What did she do do this? Did she put this in a blender? I was really tired. I just said, "Wow. This is really wild chili."
Then Catherine* said..
"Jill- that's the bran muffin mix."
*Catherine is my sister. When we were growing up, my mother had the brilliant idea of having us plan dinner once a week. I remember Catherine making the family peanut butter and banana sandwiches. I also remember asking my Mom how hard it would be to make Chicken Cordon Bleu.
Case closed.
I walked into her kitchen and looked at a bowl on the counter. I thought this is kind of unusual Chili. What did she do do this? Did she put this in a blender? I was really tired. I just said, "Wow. This is really wild chili."
Then Catherine* said..
"Jill- that's the bran muffin mix."
*Catherine is my sister. When we were growing up, my mother had the brilliant idea of having us plan dinner once a week. I remember Catherine making the family peanut butter and banana sandwiches. I also remember asking my Mom how hard it would be to make Chicken Cordon Bleu.
Case closed.
I need a holiday
And I think I'll go do this..
I'm a bit surprised that it's only rated 2 out 0f 5 on the culture shock rating.
I'm a bit surprised that it's only rated 2 out 0f 5 on the culture shock rating.
Sunday, April 6, 2008
Thursday, April 3, 2008
sigh
"There is a huge polymer stew twice the size of Texas in the Pacific Ocean."
"A heap of trash that's twice the size of Texas is floating somewhere between San Francisco and Hawaii. The Great Pacific Garbage Patch, as it's called, is 80 percent plastic, and weighs in at 3.5 million tons. Trapped in a circular course by winds and currents, it's been around since the 1950s, and has been growing tenfold every decade. It's not a dumping ground in the sense that people are flying or boating by and throwing their refuse into the heap. Instead, it's picking up trash that originates onshore, and has since made its way out into the Pacific. Cleaning it up doesn't sound too likely, since the effort would cost billions, but it would be nice if we figured out a way to stop adding to it. Another possibility: turning it into a sort of anti-Disney World. Surely that would convert even the worst plastic-wasting offenders among us into ardent environmentalists." Gregory Mone
I just don't know what to think except I would like to have a wee home carved into a hill that is naturally heated from an underground spring.
"A heap of trash that's twice the size of Texas is floating somewhere between San Francisco and Hawaii. The Great Pacific Garbage Patch, as it's called, is 80 percent plastic, and weighs in at 3.5 million tons. Trapped in a circular course by winds and currents, it's been around since the 1950s, and has been growing tenfold every decade. It's not a dumping ground in the sense that people are flying or boating by and throwing their refuse into the heap. Instead, it's picking up trash that originates onshore, and has since made its way out into the Pacific. Cleaning it up doesn't sound too likely, since the effort would cost billions, but it would be nice if we figured out a way to stop adding to it. Another possibility: turning it into a sort of anti-Disney World. Surely that would convert even the worst plastic-wasting offenders among us into ardent environmentalists." Gregory Mone
I just don't know what to think except I would like to have a wee home carved into a hill that is naturally heated from an underground spring.
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